Surfing Waves

Hey Guys...

I got back into surfing 15 yrs older and badly out of shape. Given the situation, figured i'd relearn from the ground up, given all the information available online now that wasn't there when I was a kid.

I didn't want to get a beginners board, since I had experience, but wanted to get something that would help me get back in to shape. Many suggested a big guy shortboard, since i was 190 and over 6ft (lost 15 lbs since getting back into surfing!). What I ended up going for was a 7' 6", which I come to realize is a semi-gun? A board made for big waves, not mushy surf, that is what we predominantly get on the east coast.

My frustration is... on some days, I feel like I can paddle in and catch any wave and pop up, ride down the line (in small surf). Other days, when it's crowded and everyone's on their longboards, I need to be way outside, not to be in the line of fire or drop in zone. It's a hell of a paddle trying to compete for wave rights and usually just a complete waste of energy and no waves scored (like a frustrated wave chump). It seems like other guys just glide right into anything. So... time for a new board??

I have been looking into getting a fish. I can't afford and not interested in getting a long board at this time. I have the abilty to at least ride down the line, do a descent bottom turn, smack the lip, pull off a floater with luck (on a good day, when not being a total kook). So... will a fish improve my paddling speed and get me into waves easier?

Thinking out loud here, any advice appreciated. THANKS!

At your height and weight i would suggest going for something like 6'6x21x2'3/4 in a fish with more width up front, which should give you plenty of float, therefore easier paddling and faster planing, getting you into waves quicker and further out.

its always going to be an issue competing with longboarders for waves at a mellow break, (learnt from personal experience by taking a fish out at waikiki last vacation!) but a bigger fish should help you out, and with your ability level, you shouldnt have any issues transitioning to the smaller board.

hope that helps

IMHO bla bla ...

I dont think fishes are a great choice for a heavier guy, particularly one who is struggling a bit. A 'real' fish works because of its high bouyancy and short length - so if you go out to a longer version you end up with a corky board that doesnt work very well in any conditions.

The advice you got originally was okay, you just ended up buying the wrong board
Get a big-guy shortboard, or a hybrid funboard.

Oh, and if you find you're struggling to compete with longboarders - surf a different break

I'm an american yankee doodle, what do you expect? Just pointing out experiences really. When I was a wee grom of 12 yrs old I learned on a short board at about my height then. But surfing isn't exactly like riding a bicycle where you can get right back on and ride.

Thanks for the advice doods. I was looking at a bigger fish btwn 6' 3" and 6' 6", but downingbitybit makes a valid point. Mind you, not so heavy anymore, yr later dropped down to 175 and surfed all winter in a 5/4 and trunking it now.

Wish I could find another break. Other than DP & late sessions, Summertime restricts surfing to certain areas, so very crowded & it's NSF longboard rentals all day long. So that just adds to the frustration. Great you started surfing last week and you can catch any wave on your plastic log. Not dissing longboarders though, some guys are very skilled.

kookorama wrote::blah: I'm an american yankee doodle, what do you expect? Just pointing out experiences really.

I meant me

Had a board made last year and in the process was asked to try out a number of boards one of which was a smaller version of the board you have now. Assuming you have a pin or rounded pin on yours (the one I tried had a rounded pin). Found it very unforgiving, like the bottom turn in particular had to match the contour of the wave face or I'd just bog a rail.

I'm a little shorter but a little heavier than you and got on really well with a Bilt 6'8 x 20" x 2 5/8" swallow tail, which is about 6" across. This is quite important as it really helps pick up waves I couldn't hope to catch on my other board. Still think of it as my magic board, one that goes in nearly anything, and once I'd gotten used to it really felt like it helped my progress no end. Couldn't recommend one enough.

Thanks for going easy on me, the noob, first post treatment is usually like heavy localism.

All good advice, I've not come across these "bilt" boards. The hybrids look really sweet on that site. I may see if any local dealers carry them around here. Do you know if they're pop-outs?

I've been reading up on the Lost Rockets. So far it sounds like a good option with a lot of float. Still looking around for a fish as well, eventually want one regardless.

thanks guys.

Think you'll find this forum a bit different. There's a place for that "heavy localism" s**t talk but it's not here (Magicseaweed springs to mind).

Bilt boards are far from pop-outs, but not suggesting you go for one of them specifically, more to give you an idea of the shape you should be looking for. On their site under high performance there's one called the spitfire that's 6'3" x 20". That shape in a 6'6" or a 6'8" would be ideal for you.