Surfing Waves

So today I took my first surfing lesson and then surfed for about 2 hours by myself. I started with a 9ft, instantly got up and rode the waves just fine, then tried I think it was an 8ft, same thing, can ride it just fine without falling off and getting up on the incoming waves. They weren't too big either but quiet good for beginners, rode quiet a few.

Now I am 5'10" and around 130pounds and I am doing good with either board. I was thinking on going for a 7'6". One thing I have in my head is, while riding the 8ft one I had to put my feet right at the back of the board without having them too far back that they are not on the board so I wouldn't fall forward. Now, on the 7'6" if I am as forward as I am on the 8ft board I am sure I am going to eat some dust and my board will go bad and hit me back. Do I just hold my feet a little bit in the air so the balance is more on the back and not the front?

Help would be appreciated.

Also, what type of board is better? Epoxy, fiberglass, etc?

Eat some dust?

What kind of boards were you learnign on, soft foam boards?

Did you paddle the board at all? Out back?

Usualy the 'first' lesson is all keyed up to getting you to your feet easy as for a bit of incentive, dont think you can surf from it, sorry to say.

As for proper surfboards, small changes in size and volume make a big impact. Epoxy/glass depends on your rpeference.

Rent a proper surfboard, or even a bic, 8-9ft, try paddling it out back and catching a clean wave - with what you've learned.

agree totally.. although a 7'6 minimal wouldn't be be too much of a stretch... i'd be leaning toward something a little bigger...

you'll definitely find it way harder than a foamy... less float, harder to paddle, all in all , a lot more work...

a lot depends also on how much you are going to surf, fitness etc.
you getting straight to your feet (no knee first)? turning?

as for footing... putting weight on you back foot will stall the board but will also make you rise a little onto the faster part of the wave... too much and the wave will pass by. weight on the front foot will push you down the wave giving a bit of speed briefly... too much and the nose will sink (pearling).

I was using a soft foam board and paddling to catch the waves myself. I was able to catch them, stand up (correctly) on the wave and turn it a little bit. The only problem is the waves were not too big to have enough time to turn the board. (maybe I'm still a little bit slow, but I definitely felt that I was turning it correctly as it turned with ease, the wave momentum just didn't keep me that much on my feet as mentioned early, they were a little small)

I plan on surfing weekly, if possible, several times within the week. I am 5'10", weight around 144.6lb (just weighted myself) and I am exercising daily at home.

RJD wrote:Rent a proper surfboard, or even a bic, 8-9ft, try paddling it out back and catching a clean wave - with what you've learned.

I think that is what I will do next time, just to feel the difference between a soft board and a normal board

Is a 7'6" considered a shortboard?

hell no

Rico wrote:hell no

For some reason most of the online surf shops show up until 8' to be a shortboard, which surprised me as you said "hell no" they don't look like they would be considered short. :p

Heh lenght.

Longboards for most competitions need to be 9'2" minimum.

But IMO the style of a board is more to do with its shape than length. A 7'6" board could well be a shortboard length for someone 6ft+

do what u want. i 1st learned 2 months ago on a 6'10" now im riding a 6'0". consistantly catching waves.

loner wrote:do what u want. i 1st learned 2 months ago on a 6'10" now im riding a 6'0". consistantly catching waves.

I think I will.

When I switched from 8 to 7'6 it took me a while to find the right sweet spot (I'm an inch taller than you). The 8 was easy, because like you my feet just had to touch the end of the board. With the 7'6 it was a lot harder figuring out how much of my legs should hang off the end. No one can tell you exactly where the right spot will be for your size. Eventually you just get a feel for it. The right spot will be when your board is lying flat on the water...too far back and the nose will be in the air, to far forward and you'll notice the nose trying to pitch under the water immediately.

ambolina wrote:When I switched from 8 to 7'6 it took me a while to find the right sweet spot (I'm an inch taller than you). The 8 was easy, because like you my feet just had to touch the end of the board. With the 7'6 it was a lot harder figuring out how much of my legs should hang off the end. No one can tell you exactly where the right spot will be for your size. Eventually you just get a feel for it. The right spot will be when your board is lying flat on the water...too far back and the nose will be in the air, to far forward and you'll notice the nose trying to pitch under the water immediately.

Indeed, I have been playing around with that but I can maintain balance just fine with it, except if the wave brakes on my while taking it. =p

ambolina wrote:When I switched from 8 to 7'6 it took me a while to find the right sweet spot (I'm an inch taller than you). The 8 was easy, because like you my feet just had to touch the end of the board. With the 7'6 it was a lot harder figuring out how much of my legs should hang off the end. No one can tell you exactly where the right spot will be for your size. Eventually you just get a feel for it. The right spot will be when your board is lying flat on the water...too far back and the nose will be in the air, to far forward and you'll notice the nose trying to pitch under the water immediately.

A good indication is that the nose of the board should be about an inch out of the water. But like you said its something you hve to figure out

isaluteyou wrote:

ambolina wrote:When I switched from 8 to 7'6 it took me a while to find the right sweet spot (I'm an inch taller than you). The 8 was easy, because like you my feet just had to touch the end of the board. With the 7'6 it was a lot harder figuring out how much of my legs should hang off the end. No one can tell you exactly where the right spot will be for your size. Eventually you just get a feel for it. The right spot will be when your board is lying flat on the water...too far back and the nose will be in the air, to far forward and you'll notice the nose trying to pitch under the water immediately.

A good indication is that the nose of the board should be about an inch out of the water. But like you said its something you hve to figure out

And this is once you are taking the wave correct? Going down to get the speed and stand up?

good rule of thumb... too far back the wave will pass under, too far back and the wave will pitch you off the board. usually have an inch or two of play between the two.