First board- 6,4 nsp fish?

[benjl]

Hi guys

Sorry to bump this but i'm in a similar, not identical situation and would really appreciate some advice.
I've only just started surfing about 1.5 months ago but seem to have picked it up quite fast- i'm about 5'8 and 72kg so on the smaller end of the scale.
I brought a 7'6 fun board after doing a lesson on a 9' long board and have been riding it comfortably and now progressing on to turns and trying to catch wave faces.It's 21.25" wide and 3" thick.
For something a bit different, I also then got a greco hosanna 5'10 fish (https://www.grecosurfboards.com/store/p ... surfboard/) and could stand up on that quite comfortably too.

The problem I have now is that after going surfing the other day in about 2-3ft dumpy conditions and trying to progress towards bigger, I found the funboard too long and kept nose dipping in the wave. It's very stable, especially after riding the 5'10 (felt like riding a door) but seems to be hindering my ability to try for any bigger or badder waves.
The 5'10 is very boyant although being only a twin fin with very flexible fins, isn't very stable and is also a softtop.

I begun looking at the below 6'4 fish as an alternative to the funboard and as a progression torwards a shortboard. It would be the same brand as my funboard so i'm sure wouldn't be a too hard transition.
http://www.boardzone.co.nz/surf-series- ... 39257.html

What would you guys suggest? Do the dimensions of that 6'4 fish seem like a good progression? Any other things to consider?

[dtc]

Its true that on really dumping (fast pitching) waves, a longer board is harder. But its not impossible most of the time - in fact, for those waves I reckon nose rocker is more important than length (ie you need more nose rocker, so a highly rockered 7ft board would do better than a flat rockered 6ft4 board). But usually nose diving (called 'perling' - if you search this forum there is a lot of good advice on it) isnt due to the board, its due to the rider. Not always - some waves just arent made for longer boards - but often.

My first question is, when you say you are progressing to catching waves faces - are you actually catching unbroken waves? If not, then changing boards seems a bit pointless. You dont need to 'progress' from the fun board, you still need to learn how to surf on the funboard.

Secondly, why are you sticking with foam boards?

Sorry if this sounds harsh, but a lot of people have difficulty with their longer boards and think a shorter board will solve the problem; but the problem is skill not the board.

That said, if you can catch unbroken waves with the 5ft10 board and stand up and ride the wave on that board, perhaps a shorter board (than 7ft6) is worth a look. But I would suggest a 2nd hand non foam top board, because they are a bit different to a softtop (much less bouyant, as you have noted) and you need to start on a 'proper' board at some stage before the shortboard. Foam boards have other downsides - the bouyancy can make them less stable, the fins means they dont turn very well, they rarely have rails (the side bit) or bottom concaves that are any use. They are good for going straight and not injuring other people.

So maybe something around 6ft8 or 6ft10 in a fish or hybrid/egg type board. 72kg isnt that small, you will still need some foam beneath you.

[benjl]

Hey man

Yeah i'm starting to catch a few unbroken wave faces- that is definately what i'm heading and aiming towards. The hard thing is that the wave conditions I've been in recently have been really dumpy and there isn't enough rocker on my 7'6 by the sounds. Feels more like a hinderance in these type of conditions or anything bigger to actually get on the wave without 'pearling'. On the smaller or less dumpy waves it's all good, although so is my 5'10 in the same conditions. I wouldnt've considered a shorter board until I realised I could stand up on that comfortably.
I need to clarify that only the 5'10 was a softtop board, my 7'6 is a PU board with plastic poly ethylene coated. Same as the link here http://www.boardzone.co.nz/sold-out-che ... 80819.html

The 6'4 fish I was looking at is the same construction. Compared with the 5'10 i've got, do you think it would be much harder or easier?
Would it be suitable to head in that direction now or do you have to spend a lot of time on the funboard sizes before heading shorter?

I seem to be at that akward stage where i'm bored of the smaller waves and find them too easy and but the next size up are too big for my 7'6 and my 5'10 is too unstable.

[KernowDan]

@benjil
I hate to be one of those people, but a 7'6 'mal is capable of riding 8 foot waves+, but the rider isn't always...

I have been riding a 7'6 NSP board ( http://www.nspsurfboards.com/surf/produ ... s/fun--7-6 ) for 6 months. Before that had a decent 8ft Foam board for 6 weeks. I have been getting out 4 times a week on average I would say. I am 5'11 and 90kg. Although the 7'6 was a bit hard going for the first 3 weeks, I soon picked it up and it just powered like a rocket and gripped like an F1 car compared to my foamboard. And nsp's are relatively crap...:/ Anyway, I haven't by any means finished learning on that NSP by a VERY long shot.
However, I have found it hard work to get out back on bigger days, winter storms and all..and have had a 7'6 Tiki Fatboy shortboard like this:
( http://www.tikisurf.co.uk/Tiki%20Fatboy ... x_MFvl_vps ). This board has progressed my surfing, by forcing me to progress. It holds the wave better, has taught me better paddle discipline, it bogs down if I don't pump better. But it is still a fair size, to allow me to paddle onto bigger waves, but it is just small enough for me to duckdive. Meaning I can now get out back faster, catch more waves (on bigger days around overhead height) and a higher wave count = faster learning. But as I say I am not ready to get rid of that NSP yet, because I haven't got to the stage where I can really handle it TBH. The smaller board is just a useful training tool.

I am still a kook, but the amount you can shred is 10:1 experience to board. Kelly Slater can carve on a coffee table with 4 legs lol...

If you are pearling your mal (digging the nose in) you need to
1: pop up faster,
2: land on your feet near the back of the board (back foot near the front fins, front foot no further forward that middle of the board)
3: Paddle harder to catch the wave earlier you want your nose about an inch out of the water when laying on it (read more on paddle tecniques and watch as many youtube videos as you can (all the way through your learning))
4: Choose better waves if possible

If you have tried all the first 4 options for about 8 surf sessions and still have no luck,
5: Your board may be inappropriate, but before you consider a new board, get advice from people at the beach there, if not from a professional. Book a learner surf lesson for a few hours. They will help you no end.

As for what board I reckon you should ride. I would say if you can catch faces at your weight a 7'6 proper surfboard is very appropriate for you, If you want to be rebellious you will handle a 7'4 slightly better, but will take longer to get to that level... Look up 2nd hand boards near you. Definitely don't go new.
Good luck!

[jaffa1949]

And that from kernowdan pretty much tells it as it is!

Good post this not from the older guys but just clear thoughts , thanks we geta little jaded about I wanna learn on a short board waddya think questions

[KernowDan]

@jaffa1949
I do waffle on a lot, but the amount of useful info I have read on this forum and others... I feel I owe something back lol..even if it is just my two pennies worth.

@Benjil. Just to clarify:
IMO that 5'10 is mostly useless to you at the moment, That would be better for kids to learn on perhaps.. I would sell it and get a good price for it before you use it too much, or.... save it for a bit of boogieboarding when there are no waves.

And that awkward stage you speak about I remember very well. Trust me when I say:
It is when you can pop up and catch waves, but don't have nearly enough experience to actually use the wave at all. Just keep at it, and watch a video on "trimming" and "bottom turns" Watch as many video's as you can!

Your 7'6 you have, you can use that lower rocker to your advantage to catch the waves earlier (because it paddles faster) before the wave starts breaking and then you can pop up faster before the nose has a chance to dig in and pearl. And some advice an experienced competitive surfer gave me a few months ago is don't go too fishy! Only once you have a serious wave count under your belt will you have the skill to surf an unwieldy fish like it should be surfed. Please don't consider a proper fish with flat rocker until March 2015...