Returning to surfing after 20 years

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Returning to surfing after 20 years

Postby Applejack » Mon Sep 15, 2025 1:48 pm

Hi all...

I did a fair bit of surfing in my late teens / early twenties and reached an intermediate-ish level. All I could afford back then was one of the old plastic Bic mini mal (7'3") but I had a lot of fun on that board. Now some 20 years later I am looking to get back into surfing more regularly. I have only surfed a handful of times in those twenty years but have done several sessions on hired Torq softdeck boards (7'2" / 7'6") over the last couple of months and would still consider my albeit limited skills to be a level above beginner. I'm now in the market to buy a board (with a healthier budget that the Bic days), but what to get?

I am male, 5'7", about 65kg and now in my early 40s. Generally fit but of course lacking surf practice. Will be mostly surfing North Devon beach breaks.

I recently put all this to a guy in a surf shop and he said i shouldn't be looking at anything short than 10". This really took the wind out of my sales, and I still find it hard to believe... I had originally been thinking something 7"-8", around 50L (I have a tiny flat and a tiny car, anything over 8" is just not going to be practical).

The reality is that I live a good couple of hours drive from my preferred spot so I get probably one or two solid weeks plus a handful of weekends surfing in a year. My head draws me to the greater bouyancy and durability of epoxy boards, but my heart yearns for a 'proper' fibreglass board. How much should I really worry about the differnce? And am I right that for my size, ability and the conditions i'll be surfing in i can afford to go under 8"?
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Re: Returning to surfing after 20 years

Postby jaffa1949 » Mon Sep 15, 2025 4:53 pm

Applejack, forget the surfshop advice first off….. I would look at 8ft, or at the smallest 7‘6“ you won‘t notice the difference as a “hard” board in an epoxy they are a little more buoyant. ( Corky) but more ding resistant…. investigate the Torq line, quite a few forum guys like them.
I know some hire places have hard Torqs maybe even a range to try out.
Don’t be in a rush to go short for right now you need paddle resilience, and stamina, relearn good surfing skills and reachieve enjoyment.
The journey re begins :lol:
I've taken up troll hunting just for fun, instead of a rifle I'll just use a pun! 冲浪爷爷
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Re: Returning to surfing after 20 years

Postby waikikikichan » Mon Sep 15, 2025 9:20 pm

Get the longest board that will fit in your car and home. If it happens to be a 7’6”, then so be it.

Here in Japan, the longest board ( in a case ) you can take on the train is limited to 2 meters.

I would forget about getting a “proper glass board” under your skills are more than above beginner. Get that “ proper “ board after you can bottom turn and cutback going backside consistently.

Please post or list the boards you might be interested in BEFORE you go out and buy it.
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