by oldmansurfer » Thu Sep 09, 2021 5:53 pm
What board have you used that was easier to carry and get out through the surf? Surfing isn't easy to learn. It's not just riding a board. It's paddling and standing up and getting out through the surf and dealing with other surfers and waves and currents. Perhaps the instructor was trying to keep you safe. Getting out through the surf often requires that you understand the ocean and how waves break and currents and have strong arms and good paddling technique. Bigger boards present problems because there are less options in going through the surf however they have an advantage of being faster to paddle out through the surf which makes up for that. Conditioning is probably what you need and maybe more lessons and a better understanding of the waves and currents.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.