Did I get the wrong board?

[HaoleKook]

I don’t know anything about waves. I have a lesson on Wednesday and want to ask if we can focus specifically on waves - reading, timing, predicting, forecasting, etc.

I want to learn to surf the fins off this board, I’m so stoked.

[HaoleKook]

I forgot to ask what fins were in the board before I bought it. I randomly chose 4" x 4" side bites which I later learned are on the bigger side, so my research suggested a 6" center fin would be a good match. I can also use the 8" from my mini-mal if I decide to.

[HaoleKook]

I switched to an 8" fin and no longer would use the word "tippy" to describe the board; it’s much better for my present ability. It’s pretty cool that it makes such a difference. I’m stoked for when I can eventually take advantage of those changes.

[TeeBee89]

"But then again, “I suck” and apparently can’t possibly have any valid opinions or preferences so I guess none of this matters."

Not at all HK, this has been an incredibly valuable thread to read, the exchange between you and Waki.
In fact I'd recommend this to beginners as something to read about the whole getting started experience, being humble and honest about your skill level, open to riding a Costco foamy, and like Waki says about the Goldilocks approach trying things out to see what you like/don't like, or maybe even get a sense for what you want to progress to.
I really wish I'd been able to read something like this when I got started.
Lots of crew forget we were all kooks in the beginning, or in my case always will be
Where I live now, the waves are p!$$ weak fickle slop and I've toyed on/off with getting a foamy, but couldn't get over myself and preferred to waste time fantasizing about the next trip to Indo, mid-length/fins I'd get, etc., when I could have shamelessly been riding a foaming in the poop.
Other great thing about experimenting via renting is sooner or later you'll eventually go too small. You won't be like me splashing out for an overpriced 5'8 mini simmons because on paper the dims should have worked in the conditions I faced, despite my terrible skill level, and all the hipsters make it look cool. My God man, NEVER AGAIN.
Look forward to reading about your progress eh, it is inspiring!

[HaoleKook]

Thanks TeeBee.

They say you never forget your first wave. For me, standing on a 12ft log after being pushed into a wave wasn’t super exciting. Being brought to a break and paddling like mad to catch my own was better, but I never got that unforgettable feeling. But this week, reading the wave to adjust my paddle speed and line, standing up and making adjustments to correct my line, then shifting weight to get back up into the wave energy and riding that baby for what seemed like eternity: honestly the happiest, most elated feeling I’ve felt in a long time, if ever!!

What I’d been having a tough time with was either pearling or missing waves. I knew it was about weight shift but I couldn’t seem to find the happy spot, and no amount of back arching seemed to be right. But then I had a lesson and was shown a subtle body shift, moving just half my body forward or back by what seems like an inch or less. It literally changed everything! My wave catching confidence is like through the roof (compared to before) and I also use it when paddling out - forward for speed when it’s flat, back for maneuverability paddling into surf. My hunch is this board is higher performance and more sensitive than a beginner board so little changes matter more. It has a bottom profile that changes from concave to vee, and maybe the rocker is a little different. It definitely has been more challenging to learn on, but also really rewarding.

Coach said I graduated from novice to beginner and I think we’re going to try a new break soon. I’m so stoked!

[TeeBee89]

This really resonates with me:
"But this week, reading the wave to adjust my paddle speed and line, standing up and making adjustments to correct my line, then shifting weight to get back up into the wave energy and riding that baby for what seemed like eternity: honestly the happiest, most elated feeling I’ve felt in a long time, if ever!!"

I was down in the dumps about getting out of the novice dregs at the time and generally frustrated. As you say, one wave changed that when, for whatever reason, everything clicked as I caught the wave and the stoke returned. My sense we all live and indeed, chase that feeling for the rest of our lives if able.
Can't wait to hear more!

[bb77bb]

I'd suggest something different than changing the board, try to change your body it requires more effort but gives you a lot of satisfaction.
I am not advanced at all but in the process of learning like you I went too small too fast, and moved from 100LT to 46Lt minimal. The first 3 sessions zero waves, only training in paddling... Then started getting some but could not get the right position and I spent most of the time in the washing machine, my nose dived in and my face followed it.

I started getting in the gym regularly training with a lot of "swimmers", lumbar extensions and pistols to target the lumbar muscles and my glutes, last week back in the game I oversqueezed these parts just before popping up and surfed my first 6ft wave. Hope this helps.