dtc wrote:To catch a wave requires paddling, positioning and timing.
I like to think of it in terms of margin of error.
On a long board you might need to get these things 80% right to catch a wave. On a shortboard you might need to get it 95% right (figures are obviously made up for illustration, but you get the point)
So you are discovering you were probably getting things 85% right. Comfortable for a longer board, but on a short board that means you don’t catch any waves at all.
This is a great way of explaining it.
Even if OP could manage that shortboard better (which I bet he would with a few more sessions), doesn't mean he should be surfing that board. It took me awhile before finally understanding that even if you can surf a particular board doesn't mean that's the board you should be riding (if you want to improve your skills.) You want to be on whatever board gives you some margin for error, to allow for learning new techniques, less than ideal conditions, or even just being able to improve wave awareness/focus. It doesn't mean we should all surf longboards for the first 5 years, we should surf whatever board still gives us some comfort margin in which to develop our skills.
I don't totally flounder with a short board (I surf a beach break that is fast so easy to catch when smaller), but I'm really not good at it and have no margin for error. It's actually a fun challenge once in awhile, but that's about it.
Instead of spending 4-5 sessions just to get to baseline wave-riding ability on a shorter board, may as well have had 4-5 sessions on your bigger board focusing on improving your bottom turn, top turn, etc. and better improve your skills..well at least I learned that!
