6'4 or 6'6

[Gvr23]

Hi first of all thank you for taking the time to read this and to reply.

I'm 28 years old started surfing three years ago but really i have been constant since last summer.
I recently started to go sideways and move up and down on the wave.(6 waves total per day and 2 or three all the way from the line up o the rocks). My wave count has increased from 2 to 6 and now i want to learn on a smaller board because the one I have now is 7'1 x 21 1/2 x 2 3/4.

I have gotten tired to get to the line up, but then I rest and give it my hardest paddle to catch waves and then i get a little tired to get back to same point and have to rest, but surprisingly I didnt get tired on my last session.( maybe cause my ribs hurt only on one spot).

I regularly dont say this, but it may help for the purpose of the discussion. I've had an aneurism when I was 16 and I get tremours on my right arm and right leg, sometimes it does affect my surfing, and deffinetly when I paddle my left arm goes through the water harder than my right.

In any case, I talked to a shaper that my cousin has gotten boards from, and he recommended 6'4 x 20 22/25(.88) x 2 22/25(.88) comming out to 37 liters.

the wave height can be from 4ft to 7ft.

Told him everything that I have said here, and will spend in summer 3 days during the week, maybe a little more(right now im up to two days a week because of work and university). I will beat y way through getting used to that board if I go through with it.

first, what are your thoughts of me getting the board, is round pin, wider nose and other things to help my paddle according to the shaper.

second what do you guys think about a 6'6.

again thank you for taking the time to read and help me out.

[Big H]

I think 6 waves is a warmup.....I wouldn't change the board, I'd push harder in the water....if you're still with sore ribs you aren't on a board enough.

Smaller boards take more effort to paddle....if you have health issues and get tired easily, why do you want a smaller board?! Its an honest question....progression in surfing isn't dependent on the length of board. I think you have a good thing going if you've improved from two waves a sesh to 6.....why not just continue to grow on that path for awhile?

[Gvr23]

im not sore from my whole ribs like the beginning, I have a pain in my right hand side rib, the size o a fist, I dont know what it is.
I want to switch boards, because it would be easier to duck dive, carry from place to place because I have to get into taxis mostly, and also to maneuver in the wave. and just asking why not switch?

[waikikikichan]

and just asking why not switch?

1) YOU catching the wave will go from 6 down to 2. The WAVE catching YOU will triple.
2) if you can't catch waves then you can't turn
Smaller doesn't equal easier if it doesn't mesh with the rider and wave.
3) getting a board that can duckdive but not catch is putting the cart in front the horse.
4) "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" phrase doesn't apply to you. The more you mess with the board now, the more confused you'll get.
I understand sometimes there's limitation on car size, apartment elevator size, etc. If you HAVE TO go smaller get the max dimensions. ( and you still won't be able to duckdive a 6'6" )

[dtc]

As wkk says, everything about surfing is a compromise. You (to be honest) will get far far more advantage from staying on your current board for a while longer - easier paddling (longer sessions), easier to catch waves (more waves caught = more skill development). A shorter board results in shorter sessions and less waves; even if you are surfing more often, 2 waves a session x 6 sessions a week is worse than 6 waves x 2 sessions.

But, on the other hand, if you cant get to the beach with a longer board, then you arent catching any waves!

Duck diving is great if you can surf the board. But its like having a really fast sports car to get you to the beach but not being able to fit a surfboard in it - sure you get to the beach faster, but when you are there you cant do anything. Much better off getting a slow station wagon

Turning is you, not the board. Remember the compromise with a board that turns easily - it means its less stable (thats why it turns more easily). Less stability means less room for error on the pop up (fall off more often); less room for error on foot placement and weighting and hip movement; faster turns means you need to know how to turn or you lose control; easier to bog the rail because you turn sharper etc. Again, turning easier is great - if you can do it.

At the end of the day, if you must have a board that fits in a car/taxi, then I absolutely re-iterate what wkk said - get the max dimensions you can, dont expect to be able to duck dive it and understand the downsides and expect them and plan for them (mentally as much as physically - a session where you catch 2 waves and fall off on one can be really frustrating)

[Gvr23]

waikikikichan i already duck dive my 7'1 just ill get deeper with 6'6
but yeah ill get the maximum dimension and i'm gonna keep my other board as well, I've already tried it on a friends 6'8 and i was able to stand on it last summer, we'll see how it goes thank you for the advice.

[jaffa1949]

If you are set in your choice, I would suggest that you begin a surf specific fitness regime !
Why ? Your injury and perhaps some loss of motor function may be causing the tiredness! Motor skills fall apart rapidly if anyone is tired and a 6 wave session is a small wave count ( of course that considers paddling out and around to catch the waves). More waves means more skill development and increase in muscle memory to aid motor skills.
You have chosen a small board, so getting surf fitter will be a major help!
most of all upping the enjoyment factor is the way

[waikikikichan]

i already duck dive my 7'1 just ill get deeper with 6'6
but yeah ill get the maximum dimension and i'm gonna keep my other board as well, I've already tried it on a friends 6'8 and i was able to stand on it last summer.

1) So you have the power to duckdive a 7'1" ? Even advanced surfers will have a hard time. How tall and heavy are you ?
2) You have power to duckdive a 7'1" but not the strength to paddle fast and strong ? Again if you don't have good paddling technique, a smaller board will make it worse ( will not in dumping shorebreak )
3) You could "stand" on your friend's 6'8", but did you actually bottom turn and "ride" the wave or go straight in the whitewater ?