Volume in first surfboard - is it possible to have too much?

[BaNZ]

Any chance that you're from around Cambridge? Do you also surf at Cromer?

Not from Cambridge, but Ipswich. But, yes - I've only ever surfed at Cromer! Do you know this person, or maybe you are them?

haha I used to surf in Cromer all year round even when it is freezing cold. I do still have a few buddies that is as hardcore as me. We go to Cromer whenever there is a surfable swell, whether it is 1feet or 5 feet of white wash.

[peterstock]

So I don't think it's a kneeboard that I saw. I found a video that shows what I think I saw:

I love the 'bunny hopping' bit at 9:22 - they're like kangaroos

[oldmansurfer]

So I don't think it's a kneeboard that I saw. I found a video that shows what I think I saw:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lhFL9RqA_J4

I love the 'bunny hopping' bit at 9:22 - they're like kangaroos

Cool. I haven't ever seen one of those boards before.

[Big H]

I love the 'bunny hopping' bit at 9:22 - they're like kangaroos

Holy sh_t....please don't enter the water like that......

[saltydog]

So I don't think it's a kneeboard that I saw. I found a video that shows what I think I saw:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lhFL9RqA_J4

I love the 'bunny hopping' bit at 9:22 - they're like kangaroos

Man, are they fast! But that maneuver should be allowed only to the lifeguards

[jaffa1949]

Those boards and those techniques are for racing rescue malibus, note the handles or straps, and almost every beach in Australia has a Surf Life SavingClub. They use 3 types of rescue craft, the boards, surf skis and surf boats . Many of the -popular english beaches have adopted s
Some of the practices.!

[peterstock]

Those boards and those techniques are for racing rescue malibus, note the handles or straps, and almost every beach in Australia has a Surf Life SavingClub. They use 3 types of rescue craft, the boards, surf skis and surf boats . Many of the -popular english beaches have adopted s
Some of the practices.!

Interesting - I'll try to find out if it's purely recreational or whether they are actually the resident lifeguard!

[jaffa1949]

If you tap on the picture I posted of surf at DeeWhy in 1962 you will see the guys paddle in exactly the same way without the shallow water bunny hops.
Only animals involved were the almost ubiquitous budgie smugglers.

[ManicDaisy]

I'm a little smaller than you—5ft5 and 125lbs (is that around 56kg?) Anyway, I found that is was in fact possible to have too much volume. But that largely came down to having too much size. Since you're a man, you may not have this problem, but I found it very hard to control larger sized boards. I started on a 8ft hard funboard a few months ago, but fairly quickly found that it was difficult for me to maneuver on a board that size, and also I was often putting dings in it because it was a beast for me to maneuver both in and out of the water. (I think the board had around 64 liters of volume, but I'm not sure.)

When I was consistently catching and riding white water on my own, and starting to be able to paddle into waves, I ended up trying a board that was shorter and had less volume, and I actually found it far easier to use. I think I had been hesitant paddling into waves when I was intimidated by the size of my board. And the smaller board with about 55L of volume was plenty buoyant enough to carry my weight.

Now, my go-to board is a 6ft6 foamie with 55L of volume and I'm catching pretty much every wave I try for and turning without any trouble. Granted, I live close to the beach and can surf almost every day, at least for 1/2 an hour. But still—the smaller size is wonderful for me.

As for "the biggest longboard you can find" as many people advise for beginners..... Me carrying a board over 9ft is like one of those comedy skits where a person has a ladder under their arm and keeps knocking people over. Really—I'm a danger to all around me! Frankly, I plan to never surf anything over 8ft. Preferably nothing over 7'6. I just dont like it.

Anyway, my board is a Catch Surf Skipper which has fish dimensions. That company makes a lot of foam boards that perform very well, including fun board sizes and long board sizes. And they are relatively cheap. I understand if you want to go directly to a hard board. I did as well. But since finding the right sized foamie, I find I never want to surf anything else. At least now for a while.

Good luck and keep surfing!
Daisy

[Jane]

I rented different sized boards. This is my conclusion:
A bigger board is more stable and you catch waves easier. Also small waves.
On the other hand it is harder to get to the back with a bigger board, because the waves take your board with them. It's harder to hold a bigger board than a smaller board when that happens. Especially when the waves are strong.

I would say try some different sizes (best at one day so you feel the differences in the same waves). Then you can decide what's more important or easier for you.

[saltydog]

When you feel you are not in control of your board, or that the board seems to be taking your along for a ride as a passenger, the board has too much volume. In my case wavestorm is too much for me. I never felt that board was quite under my control. Trying to hold onto the board with such a thick rail when I wiped out was a royal pain.Every session I went home with a newly jammed finger or two. That all ceased completely as soon as I switched to a different board.

[ManicDaisy]

When you feel you are not in control of your board, or that the board seems to be taking your along for a ride as a passenger, the board has too much volume. In my case wavestorm is too much for me. I never felt that board was quite under my control. Trying to hold onto the board with such a thick rail when I wiped out was a royal pain.Every session I went home with a newly jammed finger or two. That all ceased completely as soon as I switched to a different board.

This is a great guideline! And I totally agree. When I feel like the board is taking me for a ride, not the other way around, it's a very uncomfortable experience. I just dont feel safe. (Not that I fear for my own safety, but I worry about running into other people.) I have a 7ft4 board thats a bit like that for me. It's very fast and I sometimes feel like the volume plus the speed makes for some out-of-control moments. I need to watch that moving forward, and think about whether I might want to sell it.

[waikikikichan]

I have a 7ft4 board thats a bit like that for me. It's very fast and I sometimes feel like the volume plus the speed makes for some out-of-control moments.

Seems you might be standing in the middle of the board on the drop. If the fins aren't engage in the water, it feels like the board is running away. Like a car tire without traction, slipping and sliding every which way. Make sure to not stand too forward.

[ManicDaisy]

Seems you might be standing in the middle of the board on the drop. If the fins aren't engage in the water, it feels like the board is running away. Like a car tire without traction, slipping and sliding every which way. Make sure to not stand too forward.

Good call. I tend to always be a bit (or a lot) forward. Even if my back foot is in the right spot, I set my front foot way forward, and it's worse the longer the board is, because I'm setting my distance based on the nose I can see, as opposed to the tail I don't. Man, it's so hard not to default to the stance I would use on a snowboard. LOL!

Thanks for the advice, I'll try that out,.