by lloyd » Tue Apr 14, 2015 11:12 pm
Hi brandon ,i know your problem ,ive been surfing for about 40 years as i got a bit older and slower i changed to riding longboards full time first my 8 footer then biger from there,where i was living at the time waves were pretty much the same as where you are living,i could still ride a shorty ,i think i got back down to my old 5,10 twinny,but still want the ease of paddling like a long board but to move it around like a short board,so i built myself a 7.6 mini mal, by the way im a surfboard builder so it was easy to just whip one up, had my own large factory until just recently,made boards for some of the best surfers in the world with other factories too,some of these guys are still on the pro tour, anyway my board was 7.6 x 22 x 2 1/2 tail area was about 14 to 15 and nose was around 16 to 18 wide, there were no straight lines from nose to tail just a continuis curve, nose had a little bit of lift ,not flat but not like a short board,, the tail but had a very good lift in it from about the end of the tail to about 1.1/2 foot foward,single into double concaves ,set up as a thruster ,back fin was about 90 mm from the tail and foward fins were set about 110 mm from front of back fin,actual board rocker was pretty flat,if you laid it in still water the back fin only had about 1 1/2" in the water due to the lift in the tail, which made the board surf shorter than it was, more like a big 6 footer, if you look at mctavish web site you will see boards similar to what ive just outlined, flat rocker big tail lift, anyway thats what i rode for years in anything from 1 foot to 8 foot waves and loved it, sold very many of the same board to guys with the same problem as we have,and only got back rave reports about them,and when a lot of these guys jumped back onto a shortboard they found that they were surfing a lot better, so thats my 2 cents worth hope it was of some help,but i would recomend you give it a go,your surfing will sky rocket, cheers