by kookorama » Mon Jul 19, 2010 10:10 pm
Hey Guys...
I got back into surfing 15 yrs older and badly out of shape. Given the situation, figured i'd relearn from the ground up, given all the information available online now that wasn't there when I was a kid.
I didn't want to get a beginners board, since I had experience, but wanted to get something that would help me get back in to shape. Many suggested a big guy shortboard, since i was 190 and over 6ft (lost 15 lbs since getting back into surfing!). What I ended up going for was a 7' 6", which I come to realize is a semi-gun? A board made for big waves, not mushy surf, that is what we predominantly get on the east coast.
My frustration is... on some days, I feel like I can paddle in and catch any wave and pop up, ride down the line (in small surf). Other days, when it's crowded and everyone's on their longboards, I need to be way outside, not to be in the line of fire or drop in zone. It's a hell of a paddle trying to compete for wave rights and usually just a complete waste of energy and no waves scored (like a frustrated wave chump). It seems like other guys just glide right into anything. So... time for a new board??
I have been looking into getting a fish. I can't afford and not interested in getting a long board at this time. I have the abilty to at least ride down the line, do a descent bottom turn, smack the lip, pull off a floater with luck (on a good day, when not being a total kook). So... will a fish improve my paddling speed and get me into waves easier?
Thinking out loud here, any advice appreciated. THANKS!