Surfing Waves

Sup everyone!! I'm new to the site and looking for some words of wisdom on getting back into it. I'm just getting back into surfing after about 12 years. Haven't really gone out for a serious ride since my son was born. Definitely got out of shape from 175-245. I'm working on the shape now and am down to 228 but I still have a ways to go. I tell myself to wait until I'm at my goal until I get back in but I hate the wait...I need to surf!! My bro gives me a hard time because I have such a hard time when I've paddled out with him a couple times and i need that to stop immediately! I'm in so cal and grew up surfing Newport near tower 56 or HB pier. Any words are greatly appreciated!! Hope everyone is well!!

I take it your an EMT so I don't need to mention overdoing it? Slow and steady is how to go. Do some exercise that gets you slightly winded , what I mean is not so you are straining to breath but just having to breath more and keep it up for 15 to 20 minutes. Dumbells to biuld arm strength also might help. Fast walking is good especially up a hill, but swimming would be the best. Balancing exercises might be good too. Be safe.

It you wait until you are 'in shape' you still wont be in shape for surfing anyway.

So just get started - get a big board, make sure you can swim a few hundred metres (yards) just in case your leash comes off, start off slow (once your arms get tired, come in) and you can get in shape and in surf shape at the same time. Pleasure delayed is pleasure forgone.

Thanks for the replies! I've been running 4-5 miles and workout at my gym doing any where from full body to isolated workouts. I definitely need to just go swimming in the ocean again. I have an 8' now but don't think it will hold the weight. I'm thinking more of a 9' at least until I get both into shape and surf shape again. Is there a certain type of wave I should look for with the longer boards? Nothing too big?

I would think a 9'6 to 10 foot would be good. I relearned on a 9'6" board and went on to ride waves up to triple overhead with that board weighing about 200 to 210 at the time. I think you can ride most smaller waves with any kind of board. It's just a matter of learning how to do it.

Longboards are fine for any wave of any size, but can struggle a bit in particularly steep waves (low tide or shallow breaking) simply because the curve of the wave is too great. You can still surf them but need some 'tricks'. Anyway, just go out and surf whatever is there and start learning the break and so forth and you will quickly pick up when is a good time and when isn't. Keep and eye on the tide (how close to low/high) and the height of the tide (as it varies). If waves are breaking at or close to high tide, then that is often the easiest time to surf (but in many places at high tide there are no waves).

Agree with Old Man's suggestion of something around 9ft6. You will find most long boards are generally 9ft2 - 9ft6 anyway, so that will help. Look for something about 22 - 23 inches wide and about 2 3/4+ inches thick. Go thicker rather than thinner - the thickness will help out given you are a big guy. If you have the cash (and they are expensive) a Walden Mega Magic (9ft6 or perhaps 9ft) would be perfect. But there are certainly cheaper boards that will be just as good - and learners (or re learners) perhaps should get cheaper/second hand anyway. Let us know if you have questions about any board you are looking at.