New: Jumping in feet first...or should I say head first
Posted: Mon Mar 16, 2015 8:34 pmHey all!! Returning to surfing after almost 20 years. Crazy to say that as I dont consider myself old at 38 but maybe I need to accept it 
Grew up surfing at Deerfield Beach in Florida when staying with my grandparents in the summers and over spring breaks. The surf shop had a massive parrot and skate park out back- still there anyone? Anyway, I lived in Pittsburgh and now Atlanta so getting to the ocean hasnt been the easiest but the want to get back out there has always lingered.
My wife and I travel to Folly Beach a lot and this year I decided to give it a shot again and rented a board. Unfortunately it was when Bertha was blowing through (not that I would have done better otherwise)...but to say it was tough...well-hence the "head first" in the title. It was an eye opener to say the least and proved quickly I didnt remember much except for how to get washed up on shore
As an Ironman competitor I thought I was in shape enough to do it as well but found out quickly how wrong I was there too.
Anyway- the plan is to continue as many trips as possible to the shore and then move to somewhere along the east coast after I finish my rotations next year. We just had a baby boy and I want him to grow up on the water and I am determined to learn how to do this again. My ears are always open and willing to take any and all advice.
Cheers!
Ryan
Grew up surfing at Deerfield Beach in Florida when staying with my grandparents in the summers and over spring breaks. The surf shop had a massive parrot and skate park out back- still there anyone? Anyway, I lived in Pittsburgh and now Atlanta so getting to the ocean hasnt been the easiest but the want to get back out there has always lingered. My wife and I travel to Folly Beach a lot and this year I decided to give it a shot again and rented a board. Unfortunately it was when Bertha was blowing through (not that I would have done better otherwise)...but to say it was tough...well-hence the "head first" in the title. It was an eye opener to say the least and proved quickly I didnt remember much except for how to get washed up on shore
As an Ironman competitor I thought I was in shape enough to do it as well but found out quickly how wrong I was there too. Anyway- the plan is to continue as many trips as possible to the shore and then move to somewhere along the east coast after I finish my rotations next year. We just had a baby boy and I want him to grow up on the water and I am determined to learn how to do this again. My ears are always open and willing to take any and all advice.
Cheers!
Ryan