Surfing Waves

Hey all, first time poster…Been surfing for a while now but am having trouble progressing from beginner level up to intermediate. The learning curve has been very steep for me, I suspect starting out in my late 40s has something to do with that. Though not looking for excuses as I know that what is rattling around in my head holds me back more than my physical conditioning. I am a female, 5'8, 140 lbs, in better than average shape. I surf a 7'4 fun board and 9'2 longboard, I think they fit me to a tee. I surf solo (though at my local beach breaks solo isn't really solo if you get my drift), once a week, though in winter less depending on how high the snow drifts get at the parking lots .

I have 2 main habits I know I need to break. I try to work on them but seems once I get out in the ocean my adrenaline takes over and I forget everything I should be focusing on. 1st habit is walking out to where the waves are breaking, standing and waiting for the waves rather than paddling out past the break and sitting on my board out back waiting. I imagine out back is out of my comfort zone, I need to find a way to push through that barrier. 2nd habit is using the ole knee pop up rather than swinging up in one continuous motion. I know I can do it right as I have it perfected the move down in my basement. Why oh why do I resort to the knee thing out in the break. Ugh.

Anyway, I am thinking putting this out there in writing might actually be a good first step to what I hope will be a ah ha moment for me in the near future. Stoked to even think about what it will feel like to glide down the line rather than flounder in the white water.

well first of all Welcome to the forum. Then those kind of persistent problems are like a habit. Some things to do are first mental imaging. Imagine you are out surfing and you are going out or poping up and then imagine you do the right behavior. Also imagine that at first you don't then you correct that mistake. Do these mental imaging exercises while you practice popping up or imagine you are padlding out and go through a simulation fo it on the floor. Then think about it before you go out, then try to think about it while you are out there. I know surfing you get into a zone and thoughts disapear. It's one of the great things about surfing that you can leave the world behind you. How long have you been surfing? It takes a while to learn and the less time in the water the longer it takes so don't get discouraged.

Thanks for a advise oldmansurfer. I've been surfing 3 years, not discouraged as I have a blast in the ocean every time I go out whether I surf good or not so good..

I imagine doing my pop ups correctly while practicing but never thought of imagining doing them incorrectly then correcting the problem. That one is a keeper. Will do my best to do the same visualization exercises while out in the surf, somehow I need to suppress that adrenaline rush that makes me lose my focus when I see a wave coming and commit to catching it.

The thing that holds me back the most about paddling out back is that I do not want to get in the way of "real" surfers. I know that is holding me back are the ones no one else wants. Time to join the big boys I guess if I really want to step my game up.

CCSurfs wrote:The thing that holds me back the most about paddling out back is that I do not want to get in the way of "real" surfers. I know that is holding me back are the ones no one else wants. Time to join the big boys I guess if I really want to step my game up.

Don't put yourself down, if you've been going out for 3 years you deserve a wave as much as anyone else
Not hitting the peak or being in the right spot will hold you back. I surf in a part of the world where the guys on the peak (or, rather, the point) are world champions, so it's often the case that I don't want to get involved with the crowd, so I feel your pain.
I'll usually identify a spot that may not be as good as the peak/point but is still surfable will go and sit right on the "correct" spot for the second-best wave. This way is usually better than picking up the leftovers of the best wave.
You'll also find that the guys on the second-best wave have self-selected themselves as being the less aggressive surfers and are happy to welcome a newbie to the peak.

As for going out back, you're not 'in the way' out there - indeed, its easier to stay out of peoples way out back than it is sitting amongst the breaking waves. So really try and get out there - even think of that as the goal, rather than the surfing. Don't be tempted to stop and play in the whitewater or take a cheeky wave halfway out, always have 'out back' as your very first goal of the day

Finally, if you're outback and it's your wave... really commit it to it... not only will this help you catch wave in the first place, but it'll help your pop up. It's a whole lot easier to pop up on a good clean wave that you've caught properly than it is to pop up on a crumbly wave that has caught you.

I also 'surf alone' in the same way you do. Although I'm pretty self motivated (introverted...) in most things, I've realised that surfing alone does allow you to stay in your comfort zone, for better or worse. I was recently out in larger waves just thinking 'these are too big' and not forcing myself to try and catch them. Using all the mental excuses - my board is wrong, its low tide and they are too steep, there are too many people out, I haven't surfed for a few weeks and need a starter wave before hitting the big stuff. Etc But basically it was a mental hurdle - I was out of my comfort zone and just couldn't find that extra 'bit' to keep going

Whereas if I was out with someone at my level (or preferably above my level) who was pushing me and encouraging (or 'shaming', in a nice, or not so nice, way) to catch those waves, I would succumb to peer pressure (or be inspired by the motivation - whichever way works for you) and do it. You can make all the excuses you want to yourself, its harder when you have to justify them to someone else.

Soooo. If you can, see if you can find someone to surf with you. Maybe there is a social group of females who get together to surf once a week or whatever (there is in my neck of the woods and they are of all skill levels - if you cant find anything on google, ask at a surf store or a surf school if they know of any). Maybe grab someone you know who you think will be willing to surf with you just once or twice just to get you out and past the mental barrier.

Or, perhaps, hire a coach for a few hours on a one to one basis. Just to give you reassurance and help you get out of your comfort zone.

Once you know you can do it once, it becomes easier the next time. We all remember the first time going out back (well, those of us who started later in life) but now its second nature; we don't even consider not doing it and have no issues.

Man, this is all good stuff. 1st time I feel like a member of the surfing tribe...

Welcome to the tribe!

"2nd habit is using the ole knee pop up rather than swinging up in one continuous motion. I know I can do it right as I have it perfected the move down in my basement. Why oh why do I resort to the knee thing out in the break." - Because your basement floor isnt moving side to side back and forth. Just like most peoples reaction the first sign of a earthquake ( well, Im in the earthquake capital of the world ), they hit the floor and stay to the shaking stops. You have to realize the surfboard is controlled by your feet. You got to do what Elsa does and "Let it Go ! ". I think you might be trying to steer ( or death grip the rails ) with both hands in turbulence of all that white water. That is the problem, you are catching ( or I should say the wave is catching you ) the broken exploding white wash. Imagine skiing down a nice powdery mountain versus getting run over by a avalanche. You are trying to ride avalanches.

Yes waikikikichan, I suppose I am using my knee as a balancing point before moving to my feet. I'll have to think of a creative way to work on that in my basement as a 3 foot blizzard a couple days ago with an additional foot of fresh snow today will keep the beach parking lots closed for some time. Can't wait to hit the waves and put all the good advise to work...