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Hello!

PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2012 10:38 am
by Liana
Hello, i'm Liana and i'm 14.

I had moved to Hawaii (The Big Island) about 4 years ago from New York, and recently I've been going to a school that offers surfing classes as an elective. We go down to the beach twice a week during school for about an hour and a half.

I really love being given the opportunity to learn how to surf :)

But...

Being able to surf, even on the weekends are limited. The beach is no way within walking distance from my house, and my parents are usually too busy to take me. And from what I've seen during surf class, it seems to me that there are a lot of people on the island that are professional surfers. (Two people in my surfing class got to compete in professional surfing competitions against adults). It just feels awkward with people staring me down while I try and get the hang of it. I haven't been able to stand up yet. I sort of did once but I stood up the wrong way and flew back into the water as soon as I did :lol: but I was so happy I got one step closer.

Anyways...

The beaches on the side of the island where I live are a bit dangerous. There's one beach that's always crowded with people that doesn't give me good practice and people are shouting at one another to "GET OUT OF THE WAY!"

The beach that I go to for surfing class is a bit dangerous. Many kids, (Including me..) have gotten hurt at the beach. The last month of school one of the surfing kid's father died surfing at the beach. I actually got hit with a fellow students hardboard on my head. It didn't really hurt, but I was in a daze and decided to come back in early, and as soon as I got back on land I had passed out. I really want to learn how to surf but sometimes these things are a little discouraging. I know I shouldn't be feeling this way but... :roll:

Do you have any suggestions?

Re: Hello!

PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2012 12:24 pm
by jaffa1949
Hi Liana, you are lucky to start your surfing learning where it all began for the world.
I hear that it is daunting to learn in Hawaii too, take the surf elective and stick with your school program all the way through.
There was an amazing Hawaiian woman Rell Sunn who did much to encourage Menehunes ( kids) to surf, there may well be programs outside of school where you can learn to be a great surfer and a very capable person in the sea. ( something I think is absolutely essential), Your school coach could probably connect you to something outside!
I've only surfed once in Hawaii back in 1969, but I know Menehunes are valued and helped if you get to the right beach. Is the beach you are thinking of Kahaluu? and have a group of surfing friends around you. Google Rell Sunn or ask about Menehune program (only thing is I don't know if it exists on the big Island) and have a lot of fun! :D

Oh and about the awkward stage s you will go through, every surfer starts out clumsy awkward and just plain can't do it.
The more you do it the better you get, you will get injuries and scares too but they help you improve, and remember Mr Big Mouth was once awkward too hand his mouth believes he is better still. :roll:

I've been surfing 56 years , Hawaii's gift to the world has been a life gift to me!
'A'ole pilikia from Australia

Re: Hello!

PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 5:38 am
by surf patrol
Hi Liana, welcome to Surfing Waves!
Surfing lessons at school, you don't know how lucky you are! :-D