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How should I repair this ding?

PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 4:28 am
by TReMoR
i recently bought a srs surfboard...
and just yesterday.. it cracked on the tail.. and it is about 1 inch long by 1/2 inch wide... not that big... but i was wondering what you would reccomend i use to repair it.. i don't want to get it done professionally...

Btw.. do any of you guys know the company srs surfing or aqua tech glassing?

PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 10:13 am
by Johnny B
How bad is it? You might get more suggestions if you post a picture of the damage.

Assuming it's not too bad you'd need a the right kinda repair kit for the material of your board (fiberglass), so something like Solarez.

But...I wouldn't suggest diving right in there, some repairs are tricky with just a board repiar kit so perhaps ask a surfing friend or your local surf shop (bring the board in). From experience it seems people who run surf shops aren't yer typical salesmen, it's unlikely they will tell you that you need the board repaired professionally unless you really do, otherwise they will most likely suggest the right product and advise you on the how to repair it.

the damage/...

PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 5:09 pm
by TReMoR
Image

PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2007 5:02 am
by Dec
That looks like it's from not using your rail saver properly. Check that on the leash, the part that is nearest the board, make sure the rectangular peice of cloth is protecting your board and the string isn't touching the edges.

Just a bit of suncure/ Q-cell/ solarez/ plain old fiberglass and resin should do.

PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2007 5:06 am
by TReMoR
im a total newb >< so i dun exactly know what your talking about.. i know about sun cure... but i dont get what a rail saver is ...

PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2007 5:22 am
by Hang11
Where you have a bit of string looped through the leash plug on your board, there should then be a length of webbing material attached to that, which is then attached at the other end to the cord of the leash. The webbing material is the rail saver.

It's there to save your rails. If the string looped through the leash plug is too long, when the leash is under tension, the string will be pulled over the rail, and cut through it, or damage it. The rail saver should be the bit that pulls tight over the rail when you fall off, it spreads the load......and saves your rail.....

The bottom bit of webbing material on the leash in this picture is the rail saver.

Image

PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2007 3:28 pm
by TReMoR
thanks :)

PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2007 5:00 pm
by TReMoR
do i have to repair it before i go surf?

PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2007 6:25 pm
by surferdude_scarborough
yes. its gone through to the foam so its guaranteed to take in water if you try and surf it.

PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2007 12:15 am
by Hang11
It'll take 10 minutes to fix that with some sola-rez, then just leave it to cure properly for a few hours.

PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2007 3:24 am
by TReMoR
so i finally got suncure.. but their instructions arent so clear.. what do i do with the wax paper? and the see through paper wont hold by scotch tape >< :cry:

PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2007 3:24 am
by TReMoR
i was also wondering if i have to repair pressure dings.. and do i have to laminate the areas where i put suncure?

PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2007 3:52 am
by Hang11
The see through stuff is probably mylar.

Just dig out the shattered/loose glass around the ding, and brush/blow any dust or sand out of th hole. Then gently sand a small area of glass around the ding down a bit, but not too much. Then tape round the tail, so you create a bit of a mould for the resin to flow into, which will follow the shape of the edges of the board, and stop resin going everywhere.

Fill the hole with the resin, then just lay the mylar film over the top of it, and give it a bit of a push down to get the top of the repair level with the board, and get any air bubbles out.

Make sure you do all of that out of the sun or indoors. Then put the board in the sun, and the solarez should go off and harden up. Hopefully when you take off the mylar and the tape, the repair should be flush with the board, and sealed up nicely. If not you may have to sand it down a bit or build it up a bit more.

No point doing pressure dings, unless they are cracked and letting water in. Makes bugger all difference to how the board will go, you just want to make sure that water isn't getting into the foam core of the board anywhere.

Probably worth wearing some latex gloves when you do the repair too. It makes it loads easier to get cleaned up.

PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2007 5:14 am
by TReMoR
k thanks