Surfing Waves

I'm brand new to this site and could do with a little advice. I've got a 7'10'' custom built minimal and I love it (although I put a serious ding in its tail on Sunday - not happy). Had it over a year now, and have no probs catching waves, popping, and doing basic turns. But I am still stuck mostly in the white water.

I know there is no shame in this (being in white water), but I simply cannot paddle it out beyond the breaking waves (I'm only 5'6'' & under 10stone). I really want a board that I will be able to paddle out a lot easier. I'm not massively confident, although I am quite a strong swimmer and reasonably fit. Therefore I wont be entering surf bigger than 4 or 5ft.

Bearing in mind my height and weight, what would suit me best (shortboard or fish)? Also what size range ? I would say I have very good balance, particularly for someone that's only been surfing a little over a year and am developing pretty well.

I'll probably go for a secondhand board, and I mostly surf at Watergate, Fistral, Croyde and the Gower region in Wales. I did try the search function and had a long look at loads of posts but couldn't find anything specific to my needs.

All comments from experienced surfers would be appreciated !

....oh okay, thats not fair, you asked a reasonable question and did at least search first

As you're not very big and not very confident, you *could* go for the fish. They're a lot of fun and best for small surf.

BUT... you say you surf fistral, croyde etc... These are powerful breaks where a shortboard would be best. The fact that you're trying to surf heavy beach breaks is probably why you cant get past the white water.

So, if I were you, I'd be trying out a more mellow break

If you're used to a 7'10 mal and you're not out the whitewater yet, you may struggle even more on a shortboard or fish. You should maybe think about a funboard, maybe 7'.

stick with the minimal, just beacuase a shorter board seems easier to duckdive on it doesnt mean youll find it easier to get out. You wont be able to paddle as fast as on your minimal, and you wont have as much momentum, youll also find it very hard to paddle into waves and catch them. If paddling out really is your main reason for wanting a shorter board i would say wait until you can get the minimal out in the size of surf you mentioned and move down to a shortboard when your competant at riding your minimal and want something a bit more manouverable. By that time youll be more confident in your paddling ability too.

If you want to go somewhere more mellow like the other guy said then consider trying some mellow longboardy point breaks (there are a few around) these are easier to paddle out aat than beachbreaks as there is a clear line to paddle out as opposed to the beachbreaks youve been surfing where you got sets and shorebreak constanlty coming in all over the place and no channels to padlle out in.

i love my fish. its easy to paddle(compared to a shortboard) and you can duckdive it. it also gets a lot of speed. i love that thing. i should name it.

what should its name be?

hmm

name your fish stewy

austin325 wrote:i love my fish. its easy to paddle(compared to a shortboard) and you can duckdive it. it also gets a lot of speed. i love that thing. i should name it.

what should its name be?

hmm

Captain Haddock!

kitesurfer wrote:Captain Haddock!

Major Mackerel!

OK, thanks for the advice DBBB & GowerCharger. I guess I'll shelve the Fish/Shortboard plans for the mo. I do like the idea of that Funboard though. Sounds like it could be the right step up for me (when surfing the more powerful beach breaks).

I guess what I really need is some good advice on where to surf my minimal (after I repair it of course) - i.e. the sort of more mellow spots that I can paddle out throu the channels easier ?

I have good access to the south coast, and am willing to travel to Wales, Devon & Cornwall.

Any ideas, or shall I go and post over in the Longboard section ?

Cheers Ears.

GowerCharger wrote:stick with the minimal, just beacuase a shorter board seems easier to duckdive on it doesnt mean youll find it easier to get out. You wont be able to paddle as fast as on your minimal, and you wont have as much momentum, youll also find it very hard to paddle into waves and catch them. If paddling out really is your main reason for wanting a shorter board i would say wait until you can get the minimal out in the size of surf you mentioned and move down to a shortboard when your competant at riding your minimal and want something a bit more manouverable. By that time youll be more confident in your paddling ability too.

If you want to go somewhere more mellow like the other guy said then consider trying some mellow longboardy point breaks (there are a few around) these are easier to paddle out aat than beachbreaks as there is a clear line to paddle out as opposed to the beachbreaks youve been surfing where you got sets and shorebreak constanlty coming in all over the place and no channels to padlle out in.

Do you think Llangennith would suit me better (on my minimal) ?

Fieldo wrote:Do you think Llangennith would suit me better (on my minimal) ?

No!!
'Gennith is renowned for having a very difficult paddle out

I'll let GC offer a better opinion where you should go as I dont know that area all that well (just 'gennith really).

But if you normally head towards croyde, then head round the corner to saunton - much easier on a longboard. Far more mellow.

Get yourself a copy of Stormriders and look for the word mellow, beginner or longboard

gennith is known as one of the hardest paddle-outs in the uk, if not the world, there is a spot nearby which might be easier for you to get out but the currents are strong so you will need to paddle constantly, pm me and ill point you where to look (its not really a secret spot but it isnt well known and probably the less people know about it the better).
Gennith can be ok if its small and clean, if its over 3 feet there or windy then take a look at caswell, usually an easy paddle at high tide if the wind isnt too strong fromt the south (low tide heavier and tends to close out), caswell is also pretty beginner-friendly in attidude and youll find plenty of other minimal-ers there.
Cant say i know much about engilsh breaks but im guessing there will be similar places in most areas with a decent selection of beaches.

major mackeral... haha

Private pilcard!
Oh this could run and run!

crazed monkfish

Sol Glider... soul, Sole...

Pikey Phil. Opps sorry phil!

captian chris cod flaps

haaha. nice names