Surfing Waves

Today I was the only one out in this break. It's usually a shortboarders spot because it breaks on top of the reef. It's slightly bigger than the usual but I didn't think too much of it.

I thought I was paddling at the right spot. I lean forward so I can paddle hard into the wave. I caught the wave but as soon as I start to stand up. I realize I'm getting thrown over as I didn't paddle hard enough. I either landed on the fins / reef or my board. My shins are bleeding, I suspect it's the fin.

I've surfed bigger days and I'm just puzzled on how much damage I've done to my board and myself. I suspect I've destroyed my confidence and it's going to take awhile to go back to my normal self.



I didn't know the board buckled until I caught a few more waves. It's now flexing when I ride it. Is it worth repairing? I feel like it's time to buy a new one as I'm not sure if it's going to be as strong as before.

Not only that, I've managed to ding my funboard on the car and it produced a tiny crack. It's protruding a little.

On top of that, after I broke my board. I got poop on by pelican. What a great day lol.

It's amazing the things we put up with for surfing. I have heard of one guy who fixed his broken in half board and found it worked better. Fixing it will make it heavier which will mean it will ride different and paddling will take more effort to get it moving. Good excuse to buy another board. Then get it fixed too and see if it's worthwhile or not.

Sent it in for repair as it wasn't too expensive.

The board is 72 litre and I'm 61kg. It's really buoyant and paddling is too easy. I'm still trying to replay that event in my head which lead to me buckling the board.

I want a new board but I can't decide what to get. I'm thinking of a 8'6 as I'm so used to surfing the funboard and it just feels much more responsive. But i still want a longboard for the smaller summer days.

Easy solution. You need to buy two boards!

BaNZ wrote:Sent it in for repair as it wasn't too expensive.

I thought a full deck wrap would be over $100 usd. I guess prices have come down on repairs ?
( but yet repairs materials and resins prices have gone way up )

Estimate 150 + 30 for repaint.

I don't think it is too bad as I probably paid 650+ when it was new. After surfing this board for 5 years, it's mostly sentimental value. If I can continue using it for $180, then money can buy happiness.

Plus they told me it will be more durable after the repair. Unsure if that's true but I want to try it out.