Surfing Waves

Hey gang, it’s been a while since my last post (and I forgot my old username!!).

So I’ve been surfing for about 10 years, haven’t really progressed passed the beginner stage. I can surf 8ft foamie sea comfortably - tried surfing a 9ft longboard and can do ok.

My regular go to board has been a chili rare bird(30L), I can only use this in days that have more power. I can’t paddle in early enough on smaller waves.

I decided to buy the 5’6 Jaime o Brian skipper (foamie) - arguably this would be easier to catch waves early - but im struggling to pop up properly on this board.

So My dillema is if I should sell both boards and get a new one - and which one to get.

I’m 5’7, 72kg, pretty fit and need a board that’ll help me paddle into a wave early with a stable pop up. I’m bit looking to do big turns or Manuvers yet - just want to dial in my take offs first.

I’m looking at

5’7/5’8 hypto (despite the hype I’ve always wanted to try this board for its easy paddling),

5’8 Tomo Evo - I’m told it’s a cheat board

5’7 (ish) FireWire baked potato or chumlee

I’m open to other brands but wanted to get some input on boards that’ll help me with catching waves early.

I surf in dumpy beach breaks in Hong Kong, but I see other guys ride the waves perfectly fine..

All your board suggestions are very small. If you're struggling getting into the waves and are still at beginner level then you shouldn't be looking at sub-6ft boards. I'd try something at about 7ft to begin with. Rent one if you can. I surfed once in HK (big wave bay) and there were loads of cheap rentals. Nothing under 6ft is really going to be a wave catching machine unless the person on it is a wave catching machine.

ahh that's the thing, I'm not a beginner. I can fare pretty well on longboards and foamies.

The trouble i've been having is i can't consistently catch waves on my 5'10 chilli at 30L, so I'm looking to try another board with more volume..

There is a huge difference between a longboard and a 5’10 board

I used to live in HK. If you are desperate for a short board, given the HK conditions, I would be looking at a 6ft soft board, a catch surf or something similar.

I can’t imagine any of the boards you have suggested will be particularly suitable for HK and you; but if you want my thoughts the HK is good for mid to larger waves and the potato is going to be best for smaller waves

Antonpelayo wrote:ahh that's the thing, I'm not a beginner. I can fare pretty well on longboards and foamies.

Antonpelayo wrote:So I’ve been surfing for about 10 years, haven’t really progressed passed the beginner stage.

Wait, I'm confused, so are you a beginner or are you NOT a beginner ?

( Or it's you are not a beginner on a longboard, but a beginner on your 30L board ? )

What do you say about the Torq longboards?
https://surfer-world.com/torq-the-don-e ... -surfboard

So I am not a beginner per Se, I started back in 2010. I used a mix of long foamies and bought a 6’ fish type board. I’m stuck at this level of not popping up consistently and catching waves consistently. Although I know I can..

Then I got a 2nd hand dumpster diver from a friend about 4 years - wasn’t really ready for it tho so sold it.

I’ve been surfing the chili successfully but only when I go back to Philippines and surf proper waves. It just doesn’t work here.

My question is if I needed more float but not step up to a mid or longboard length, what hoard would be good?

Think I narrowed t down to either a sized up evo or just get the baked potato at 44L and pray it works. Haha

jack2board wrote:What do you say about the Torq longboards?
https://surfer-world.com/torq-the-don-e ... -surfboard

Quite good talk about the Torqs by the forumites who ride them!

Antonpelayo wrote:
Think I narrowed t down to either a sized up evo or just get the baked potato at 44L and pray it works. Haha

(Very) High volume groveller type shortboards aren't very good for dumpy waves.