Surfing Waves

Hi everybody

I moved to Bali for a year about 18 months ago and started surfing but my head was turned by Bintangs and didn't get out enough. The last 3 months I was probably averaging about 3 times a week and was renting a 7'2 which I had a reasonable success rate at catching waves and could do an ugly bottom turn and sort of drift along the wave.

I am back in Bali after roughly 8 months of zero surfing. Rented a 7'6 a few times then decided to take the plunge with a cheap little banger to practice on when I wanted so I bought a cheap 7'2 from a buy and sell Facebook group. I must confess my knowledge is very limited and I don't really know what I'm looking for in a board. It is 7'2 x 21 x 2 5/8. The nose is pointier than anything I've ever surfed and it feels pretty thin but I don't know if that's because I went out today and got my boardies pulled down and spanked by mother nature. Was struggling to balance on it at sometimes to be honest.

I'm 36, in reasonable shape but need to get my paddle fitness back and weigh circa 75kg or roughly 165lbs.

I'll try and post a pic of it if I can figure out how but does it sound like a reasonable board for me? All the people I live with have these sexy little shortboards and I eye them with envy but they don't catch many waves and I wanted to give myself a chance instead of pander to my ego!

If this is a frustrating question missing variables please forgive me. My technical knowledge is poor and my bottom is sore from the spanking.

Thanks

Hopefully this picture works

Like I say it was cheap!!

BobbyG83 wrote: Was struggling to balance on it at sometimes to be honest.

1) While STANDING on the board ?
2) While PADDLING to even get onto waves ?
3) While SITTING on the deck waiting for waves ?

( By the way, nice board. Looks fun. Hope it's not a Quad four fin. )

Basically a fair enough board, the rider is still lacking enough skills for it.
Lay of the beer and try more salt water!

Quite a nice looking board from the photo and the dimensions; perhaps something 22 inches wide and a slightly rounder nose would make an easier surf, but its not a terrible board for your level, or at least the level you can be pretty quickly given your background. It can take a while to get back into it; even after a few weeks break it takes me several surfs to feel comfortable; if you have had a long break then it will take even longer.

Given that it was cheap, you might find also picking up a 7'6-8ish fun board (rounded nose) will be useful. Not only can it be your 'learner' board for a while, but a good fun board is always a useful board to have in the quiver for smaller days