Surfing Waves

Hello all. I plan on getting a new board shaped for myself soon. I live on the East coast and don’t really surf in the winter, so most of my surfing is done in mushy, summertime waves. However, there are always those bigger days that I find myself not properly equipped for. I’d like to remedy that with this new board. I stand 6’3 and weigh about 200 lbs, and have been surfing for 8 years or so. I’m 21 years old and I’m definitely not ripped, but i’m in good shape. I started on a really thick Canyon 6’6” back in the day, but have really fallen in love with my 9’6” noserider over the past few years. This summer I’m looking to get back on a short board. I’m just here to hear some opinions, I’m open to any and all advice! I’m definitely a good surfer, but don’t know everything there is to know about surfboards. Right length? Width? tail shape? rail shape? Like I said, I do most of my surfing in mushy east coast waves, and I’m 6’3” 200lbs and in good shape. I would appreciate any advice you could offer! Thanks a lot!

If you're surfing mostly summer mushy waves and want a shortboard, I'd recommend looking at a fish,or small wave groveler. They typically have a fuller outline and more volume so they work a lot better in smaller summer surf. I have a 5'10 fish and love it in the smaller surf. It accelerates through flat sections and is more on top of the water allowing for full turns and a responsive feel. Maybe give a few a try before you buy. If you find the right size and volume for your ability you will be stoked! Trying a few out first can be very helpful. Check with your local shop to see if they have demos or rentals.

Checking out the board you want before you use it is ideal but remember you most likely weren't 200 pounds 8 years ago so what you used then will not be the board for you now.

For small mushy waves you have three good choices

1. Small fish/groveller. Fast and mobile but hard to surf and requires a lot of rider input

2. Midlength board that has a wide tail. So sort of goveller shaped but longer. Something like the FireWire dominator or a good egg shape. Good allround boards, can deal with bigger waves as well, much easier to surf than a small board, although probably can’t duck dive.

3. Longboard. The traditional solution. Easy to surf but perhaps less mobile

Given you have a longboard (albeit a noserider) and perhaps might struggle on a groveller sized board - my suggestion is to have a look at a midlength, thick with a widish tail. Around 7ft or so? Don’t be afraid of a bit of volume

If you are able to test out a smaller fish style - give it a go and see what you think. Requires a very different surfing style and technique to a longboard - you may or may not like it

jmegale98 wrote: I plan on getting a new board shaped for myself soon.

Thus you should be talking to YOUR shaper who knows you more than we do and knows the break you surf at.

jmegale98 wrote: I started on a really thick Canyon 6’6” back in the day, but have really fallen in love with my 9’6” noserider over the past few years. This summer I’m looking to get back on a short board.

I with the Goldilocks and the 3 bears advice. 9'6" is too big, 6'6" is too small, so a 8'0" will be Juuuuuuuusst right.
Or maybe a 7'2" to 7'10" Hybrid / big fish with a double bump swallow tail and quad fin set up.

jmegale98 wrote: I’m just here to hear some opinions, I’m open to any and all advice! I’m definitely a good surfer, but don’t know everything there is to know about surfboards. Right length? Width? tail shape? rail shape?

First, " A GOOD surfer can surf ANYTHING ( meaning any board, fin, etc. and most any wave ( not stupid big ). So since you're a good surfer, it should matter what size, width or tail shape.
But what concerns me is the word "right". There is no right. So yes I understand it might mean the best recommendation and not "perfect". So ask that question about Golf clubs. Ask that about baseball bats. Ask that about motorcycle tires.
Again it goes back to your relationship with your shapers and refining down after trial and error of what works and doesn't work for you. We don't know how you initiate your bottom turn, only you do. You know what "feels" right.

Sorry correction: "So since you're a good surfer, it SHOULD NOT matter what size, width or tail shape."

Thus you should be talking to YOUR shaper who knows you more than we do and knows the break you surf at.

This is so true. If you have a shaper that's who you should be talking to.