Surfing Waves

Thinking of ordering a PU board couple months down the line.

Was warned that PU boards might have limited durability, pop, and lifespan.

What's the typical lifespan, in terms of say session count, of your PU boards? Extra glassing worthwhile?

Really tends on how you treat it, I have PU boards that still have life in the foam1
Dings fixed properly and promptly.
Stored in the shade or indoors ( garage on racks) .
Board Sox at least and bag when travelling !
Some heel dents but still,good!
Number of session at least 3 per week!
But not lightweight blanks nor light glass jobs, custom made for me and durability!

jaffa1949 wrote:Really tends on how you treat it, I have PU boards that still have life in the foam1
Dings fixed properly and promptly.
Stored in the shade or indoors ( garage on racks) .
Board Sox at least and bag when travelling !
Some heel dents but still,good!
Number of session at least 3 per week!
But not lightweight blanks nor light glass jobs, custom made for me and durability!

Thanks Jaffa! So you ordered extra glassing? How much of extra glassing?

Again like everything, IT DEPENDS. First you have to understand WHY you want a PU versus and EPS/epoxy traditional glassed board or a Molded Epoxy sandwich construction board. If you get the strongest blank, thick stringer, double 10 oz. deck single 10 oz. on the bottom ( with extra deck patch ), it will not ride the same. It might be more "bomb proof" but at what costs. I can see wanting a heavier "Log" for cruise and glide. What size board / shape do you intend to order ?

You might have heard that it's about 5 years where the foam loses it's rebound and the stringer doesn't have it's pop anymore. But that might be more " you need to drink 8 classes of water a day " saying to get you to buy more. You have to look at a Surfboard like you do Sport Shoes. You need for them to perform, but when they wear out, you get another one.

waikikikichan wrote:Again like everything, IT DEPENDS. First you have to understand WHY you want a PU versus and EPS/epoxy traditional glassed board or a Molded Epoxy sandwich construction board. If you get the strongest blank, thick stringer, double 10 oz. deck single 10 oz. on the bottom ( with extra deck patch ), it will not ride the same. It might be more "bomb proof" but at what costs. I can see wanting a heavier "Log" for cruise and glide. What size board / shape do you intend to order ?

You might have heard that it's about 5 years where the foam loses it's rebound and the stringer doesn't have it's pop anymore. But that might be more " you need to drink 8 classes of water a day " saying to get you to buy more. You have to look at a Surfboard like you do Sport Shoes. You need for them to perform, but when they wear out, you get another one.

Eyeing an egg shape mid-length around 7'4 ish. It's not that I automatically get attracted to PU. It's just by default this is what the shaper(s) use -- I haven't asked for the exact amount (oz) of glass -- and eps/epoxy costs extra.

Actually, this 5 years figure morphed into 6 months from other threads on the Internet So there is confusing info flying around.

One thing that may not seem obvious is that the lifespan of any board that you have will be affected by how you care for it and what kind of waves you surf with it. Also it is hours in the surf that affect it also besides just the passage of time.

ConcreteVitamin wrote:Eyeing an egg shape mid-length around 7'4 ish. It's not that I automatically get attracted to PU. It's just by default this is what the shaper(s) use -- I haven't asked for the exact amount (oz) of glass -- and eps/epoxy costs extra.

Probably the glassing schedule will be single 6 oz. bottom and 4 and 6 oz. deck. I would think the shaper will say "double 6 top will be over-kill, but if you want it to be stronger, okay."
EPS is too expensive for you ? Remember you need to choose 2 of the 3 when ordering a board:
Strong - Light - Cheap.

ConcreteVitamin wrote:Actually, this 5 years figure morphed into 6 months from other threads on the Internet So there is confusing info flying around.

First, Why are you getting information from other forums ? All you need is Surfing Waves forum !!

2nd, 6 months life expectancy is for those ultralight "pro glassing", most likely. The more "performance" the vehicle is the less the life expectancy. Look at a street bike versus a race bike. Most owners have never changed the top end ( piston, head, cylinder ) on their street bike, let alone piston rings. While race bikes need a piston ring change after every race and a full top end rebuild after about 3 races thereabouts.

Cool thanks guys. I will check if 6oz top + 6oz bottom is possible, when and if I order!

I have a longboard that was made in 1994. Has one repair and otherwise is in almost perfect condition. Has it lost its 'spring' - well, maybe, but I cant tell the difference between how it rides and how my 1 month old board rides. Certainly its good enough for me

It does weigh a lot I guess. But not excessive; I imagine 6+4oz plus glassing on the deck and probably 6oz on the bottom

Btw, on my custom boards, the shaper puts an additional 4oz layer around the leash connector and around the fin boxes. I cant notice it, the glasser he uses is excellent; but in any case it provides a bit more strength on these high stress spots. Just a little tweak to consider

ConcreteVitamin wrote:Cool thanks guys. I will check if 6oz top + 6oz bottom is possible, when and if I order!

Ahhh no, that's not the answer to "limited durability, pop, and lifespan". Especially do not demand "6oz top + 6oz bottom" on your order form, it's not going to last at all.

Have a talk with your shaper and see what he recommends. ( or his glasser recommends )

Lol the shaper I'm aiming at is very very terse on email exchanges. I'll try.

About fin setup picking you guys' brains -- This would be for an 7'4 egg. His specialty is in performance oriented eggs with "moderate rocker for performance"; but he said it's not necessary to lower it for the mostly knee/thigh high beach break I'll be surfing. But I'll trust him on that I guess... I'm thinking of going 2+1. And if 4 box + 1 center box is not too much more expensive I can do that too. Then I'd be able to try out different fin setups as I progress.

ConcreteVitamin wrote:Lol the shaper I'm aiming at is very very terse on email exchanges. I'll try.

Could you let us know what shaper you're "aiming" at.

ConcreteVitamin wrote: I'm thinking of going 2+1. And if 4 box + 1 center box is not too much more expensive I can do that too. Then I'd be able to try out different fin setups as I progress.

Why make the board more heavier with two more plugs ? When you do progress, you'll probably want a new board by then anyways, that is when you get a Quad or 4+1. ( and sell the 7'4" that served you so well, and invest that money into the 6'8" or what ever you go down to )

By the way, weren't you going to buy a Torq or NSP fun board a few months back ? ( and a Firewire after that ) What happened to those ?

ConcreteVitamin wrote: I'm thinking of going 2+1. And if 4 box + 1 center box is not too much more expensive I can do that too. Then I'd be able to try out different fin setups as I progress.
Why make the board more heavier with two more plugs ? When you do progress, you'll probably want a new board by then anyways, that is when you get a Quad or 4+1. ( and sell the 7'4" that served you so well, and invest that money into the 6'8" or what ever you go down to )

By the way, weren't you going to buy a Torq or NSP fun board a few months back ? ( and a Firewire after that ) What happened to those ?

Ah good to know I didn't know more plugs = more weight.

I was planning to do so. But it turns out the shaper's pricing is really good, not much more expensive than the Torq model. Though the former is PU the latter is EPS.

Okay the shaper got back to me with these options:
- standard glassing: 6/4 top, 4 bottom
- stronger but heavier: 6/6 top, 6 bottom

Should I go with standard or the stronger option?

ConcreteVitamin wrote:Okay the shaper got back to me with these options:
- standard glassing: 6/4 top, 4 bottom
- stronger but heavier: 6/6 top, 6 bottom

Should I go with standard or the stronger option?

I think you should ask the shaper what HE thinks. Again, it's a trade off - performance versus longevity. But it's rather minor if you drop it on the concrete, run into a rock at low tide, get up on one knee, drop in on another surfer and get a fin across the deck. 4 or 6 oz. really won't matter in those cases.

If your goal is to have a board "Last", then I would go with a Molded-Epoxy board like Torq, NSP or Surftech.

Maybe for your 3rd board purchase, after gaining more knowledge of waves and board design under your belt, then order a custom. But if your hell bent on a custom, go with the stronger 6/6 top 6 bottom.

The 6/6 top + 6 bottom will be stronger, heavier, last longer, and probably look better when you decide to sell it. This is your transition board from a Wavestorm, right? Maybe it'll be a magic board for you and you'll want to keep it forever - maybe you'll be looking for something else in year or so.

On the other hand, the 6/4 + 4 is "standard" for a reason. It's typically the best balance between performance and durability. My understanding is that the 6/6 + 6 combo is typically used for heavier or heavy-footed surfers. Is that you? If so, you've got your answer.

Either way, if you're getting a custom you should have that convo with the shaper and just go with their recommendation.