dreaded delam

[saltydog]

I just noticed a spot where I place my right hand has delaminated, possibly because I have left it in a car the other day. My bad. It's about 3"x4" oval shape. The board itself is in ok shape aside from the multiple dings large and small and one repaired fin plug. I don't need it to be in great shape but I still want it to last as much as it can, which leads to some questions.

1)Should I fix it? I mean, should I have it fixed? It's not taking in water, but I feel the glass compresses every go from prone to sit or vice versa. I might be pressing that spot when I pop up also. I've read delams can spread.

And more generally,

2) when do you call a surfboard dead (ready for the dump) aside from the major damage? They talk about waterlogged boards. Some of my boards have brown or honey colored spots. That means the foam is rotten there, correct? Would it spread and one day a board really breaks in half? It's probably a little heavier than when they were brand new but I bought them used so I don't have a good reference, plus i't's not like they bog down in water or anything. I don't think I can tell if the board still has the flexy feel of a brand new board or not, etc. Or do you sell the board once it gets too ugly and too much work to fix everything, so you can pass the problem to someone else?

[billie_morini]

No one answered our surfing buddy, saltydog?

Q1. Should I fix it (e.g., have it fixed)?
A1. Yes, delamination will spread. Should it be fixed? Depends. It comes down to whether you want to. If you can truly repair it yourself, it makes the economics more attractive. This is how this old guy, his deceased father and grandfather fixes/fixed all sorts of things. They did and I still do fix as much stuff as possible because it saves money. It's often times more ecological & environmental to fix stuff. There's also the great satisfaction of fixing stuff. A month ago, Mrs. Morini sourced a free antique head board and foot board. I made the rails and cross members to make them functional for our niece. Because I wanted the hardware to look a specific way, I made 24 of my own screws. I would not have spent the amount of money to have a craftsman do all this for me. When you think about having it fixed by someone that you must pay, then you must think harder about how much you want it fixed. As soon as I receive ordered automotive parts, I will replace the radiator, timing belt, and water pump in my 1992 Isuzu Trooper. It'd be a stretch to pay a mechanic to do this all in one go. But, old vehicles require this sort of thing. Many people today, especially in Santa Barbara, simply do not know how to do these things. These people need a new automobile, bicycle, or bus! Bottom line, if you like the board and can afford to have it fixed, then do it.

Q2. When do you call a board "dead"?
A2. Yes, brown spots indicate water is entering the board and remaining there. Several answers to the key question apply: a) when truly broken beyond repair, b) when you don't possess a lot of extra money and repair costs are very close to new or used replacement, c) when the inside core has been waterlogged and cannot be dried (if fixing yourself, you can open a large section of board to dry out and then apply a large piece of glass -- but not if the foam died, got squishy, or is disintegrating), d) when the glass is so brittle that slight pressure cracks it (although a lot of this can be removed and large sheets of glass can be applied, e) when you are simply tired of it. Yes, a board can get stiff if lots of glass is added to it, especially if it is applied in a long length on the top and bottom stringers. However, a stiff board may loosen up and flex again if not over-glassed too much. Heavier board? That'll just keep your carrying and paddling arms stronger! Ugly board too ugly for you to use? Well, this is a matter of vanity. I don't mind being seen in my big, boxy Isuzu because it is functional, doesn't cost much, and I am not interested in impressing anyone. If you repair the board yourself to save money and for your own fulfillment, then you can open these areas, inspect the foam, replace foam that is beyond service, and patch. If you are paying for that, then it becomes a question of whether you want to spend that much. You may find that some surf shops will say it is not worth fixing. They are thinking about the repair cost and board life v. cost to replace with used or new board.

Unsolicited advice: this beater board is the perfect board for you to begin to learn how to use resin and fiberglass. Poor results won't matter much. For me, repairing boards is as much about saving money as it is to appreciate the chemistry involved & enjoy the satisfaction gained. The first time you buy materials you may think the entry price is relatively high. It's not really and there is material leftover that is useful for other repairs.

[Big H]

I had a board with a fragile glass job; I dinged that board every third surf one way or another...I would fix the dings as soon as I saw them but a bit of water got inside anyway.... and since I'd bought used anyway it wasn't long before it started to look pretty ugly and I could feel it was a touch heeavier then it had been. I sold it even though it was my favorite board I'd had to that point because I wanted to be able to get enough for it to buy another one in better condition.

[oldmansurfer]

It depends on the care you gave it up to that point. If it's in pretty good shape other than the delamination I would cut out all the delaminated glass let it air for a couple weeks and re-glass it. If it's beat up... well beside fixing everything else wrong I would cut a hole in the glass and pour resin into it to fill the delaminated area with resin. My boards used to always delaminate where my rear foot went whatever I did it eventually delaminated again but maybe after a good period of time if I did a solid fix

[waikikikichan]

Relam the Delam.
1) Drill TWO holes. One on the long end and another on the other long end.
2) Get :
Large syringe
Couple of large bricks
Wax paper
Masking tape
Newspaper
3) tape off the delam area and run-off area and newspaper the floor
4) prepare resin and catalyst ( less hot )
5) shoot resin into one hole
6) keep filling to resin starts to just come out the other
7) tear off a large piece of wax paper and put over the delam
8 ) put bricks on the wax which is over the delam

[billie_morini]

Relam the Delam.
1) Drill TWO holes. One on the long end and another on the other long end.
2) Get :
Large syringe
Couple of large bricks
Wax paper
Masking tape
Newspaper
3) tape off the delam area and run-off area and newspaper the floor
4) prepare resin and catalyst ( less hot )
5) shoot resin into one hole
6) keep filling to resin starts to just come out the other
7) tear off a large piece of wax paper and put over the delam
8 ) put bricks on the wax which is over the delam

Waiki, question, please.. See line item 1 above. Should this say, "One on the long end and another on the other SHORT end"?

[waikikikichan]

Being that the area is 3" x 4", it might be OVAL in shape. So try to find the "corners" across of each other. Wasn't sure how to clearly explain that.

[saltydog]

Thanks, billie, for thorough answers!

Q1. Should I fix it (e.g., have it fixed)?
A1. Yes, delamination will spread. Should it be fixed? Depends.

That settles it. I'll be performing a surgery this week as I finish up other repairs. I was dreading another ding repair sesh since I've been redoing with some of the suncure jobs that the previous owner has tacked on. Hopefully this shouldn't be a precise task like fixing a fin plug.

Q2. When do you call a board "dead"?
A2. Yes, brown spots indicate water is entering the board and remaining there. Several answers to the key question apply: a) when truly broken beyond repair, b) when you don't possess a lot of extra money and repair costs are very close to new or used replacement, c) when the inside core has been waterlogged and cannot be dried (if fixing yourself, you can open a large section of board to dry out and then apply a large piece of glass -- but not if the foam died, got squishy, or is disintegrating), d) when the glass is so brittle that slight pressure cracks it (although a lot of this can be removed and large sheets of glass can be applied, e) when you are simply tired of it.

Finally I get a clear definition of a dead board! I get a). I like b) which is comparable to totaling an automobile in the US. It makes sense. Weight and the appearance don't bother me at all. c) can be rescued if someone is motivated enough to restore, I suppose. Currently, I have 1 board in condition d)... so fragile everywhere on the bottom that we are sick of fixing it.

Unsolicited advice: this beater board is the perfect board for you to begin to learn how to use resin and fiberglass. Poor results won't matter much. For me, repairing boards is as much about saving money as it is to appreciate the chemistry involved & enjoy the satisfaction gained. The first time you buy materials you may think the entry price is relatively high. It's not really and there is material leftover that is useful for other repairs.

You are so right. I have acquired the whole array of ding repair supplies and tools since I started surfing, most of which have come in handy for other projects. Now you gave me an excuse to purchase an angle grinder

[saltydog]

I had a board with a fragile glass job; I dinged that board every third surf one way or another...I would fix the dings as soon as I saw them but a bit of water got inside anyway.... and since I'd bought used anyway it wasn't long before it started to look pretty ugly and I could feel it was a touch heeavier then it had been. I sold it even though it was my favorite board I'd had to that point because I wanted to be able to get enough for it to buy another one in better condition.

I have one like that now. I like the shape and dim a lot, but I'm so sick of all the dings it gets. I almost sold it last year. got cold feet and held on, took it out last month and promptly discovered half a dozen little cracks. Once it's fixed I'm selling that for real this time before it gets dinged even more.

[saltydog]

I would cut out all the delaminated glass let it air for a couple weeks and re-glass it.

It looks completely water tight so do you think I can skip the airing?

[saltydog]

Relam the Delam.
1) Drill TWO holes. One on the long end and another on the other long end.
2) Get :
Large syringe
Couple of large bricks
Wax paper
Masking tape
Newspaper
3) tape off the delam area and run-off area and newspaper the floor
4) prepare resin and catalyst ( less hot )
5) shoot resin into one hole
6) keep filling to resin starts to just come out the other
7) tear off a large piece of wax paper and put over the delam
8 ) put bricks on the wax which is over the delam

Thanks for the step by step instruction. I was contemplating on your method vs making a flap by cutting a slit along most of the perimeter. Yours is less invasive and less glassing afterwards. I'll hit the drugstore for a syringe, i.e. baby medicine dropper.