Surf bigger / non-hollow waves (5-7ft) with a 5'9'' board?

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Surf bigger / non-hollow waves (5-7ft) with a 5'9'' board?

Postby saoj2017 » Fri Mar 10, 2017 1:23 pm

I used to be a good surfer and I have surfed Hawaii, Mentawai, Maldives, etc. Maldives is by far my favorite as I'm not a big rider / tub rider.

Problem is I haven't surfed for 10 years and I'm now coming back with a trip to Maldives. I'm in good shape: 5'7' and 138 pounds.

I can only afford one surfboard. Is it possible to surf bigger waves (5 to 7 feet) with a 5'9'' board (25L volume) squash tail !?

Thanks!
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Re: Surf bigger / non-hollow waves (5-7ft) with a 5'9'' boar

Postby Big H » Fri Mar 10, 2017 3:47 pm

If you were a good surfer before shouldn't you know the answer?

By 5-7ft you mean 5-7ft faces (head high to just overhead) or do you mean Aus/HI measures where you're talking double to triple overhead? If it's the first that's not big, you should be able to ride any board in that if are a good surfer like you said you were....if the second, then I'd think about how your paddle fitness, popup speed and paddle speed; question is are you up to it?
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Re: Surf bigger / non-hollow waves (5-7ft) with a 5'9'' boar

Postby oldmansurfer » Fri Mar 10, 2017 5:46 pm

If you haven't surfed for 10 years it's going to be rough for you. It's not like riding a bike. Although I hear that people who surf from when they are younger (like before the teens) have an easier time of it, I quit for 11 years and found it similar to learning how to surf all over again except I knew what to do...... although I wasn't in good shape when I restarted. I am going to guess you will want way more board than that.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: Surf bigger / non-hollow waves (5-7ft) with a 5'9'' boar

Postby waikikikichan » Fri Mar 10, 2017 7:55 pm

Easy answer.....
1) If what you rode 10 years ago in the Maldives was a 5'9", and you're still the same weight as before, than you should be okay.
2) If you used to use a 6'2" - 6'4" ( which was probably the norm back then ) and weighed less 10 years ago, than No, 5'9" is too small.
But like you said, you're a good surfer. Good surfers can ride anything.
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Re: Surf bigger / non-hollow waves (5-7ft) with a 5'9'' boar

Postby waikikikichan » Fri Mar 10, 2017 7:58 pm

Try search : Craig Anderson rode a 5'4" Hypto Krypto at 10-12 foot Kanduis. That's a tiny board on a huge wave.
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Re: Surf bigger / non-hollow waves (5-7ft) with a 5'9'' boar

Postby icetime » Fri Mar 10, 2017 11:56 pm

waikikikichan wrote:Easy answer.....
1) If what you rode 10 years ago in the Maldives was a 5'9", and you're still the same weight as before, than you should be okay.
2) If you used to use a 6'2" - 6'4" ( which was probably the norm back then ) and weighed less 10 years ago, than No, 5'9" is too small.
But like you said, you're a good surfer. Good surfers can ride anything.


I laughed when you said good surfers can ride anything, reminds me of a video I saw on facebook the other day.
https://www.facebook.com/surferfilms/vi ... 162844377/
Some pro surfer paddled out at maxing out off the wall on a 4'6 beater as a bet for an icecream bar.
Quiver: Victory epoxy fish shortboard 6'6", KaiShapes Custom Shortboard 5'10"
Tech savvy guy, don't hesitate to PM for help as long as you return the favour with surfing advice ;)
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