Surfing Waves

Bought this Hayden Shapes Ando 5,11 for 3 dollars.... it's snapped, anyone know anyways to fix snapped boards by yourself or should I just get it professionally repaired. I would like to get it repaired even if it isn't really worth it.

Oh and its epoxy

It's only 3 dollars so get some epoxy resin and glass. Cut away all the damaged glass and glue the two halves together with epoxy resin being careful to make it all straight in every direction maybe can tape some flat thin pieces of wood on both side across the break. The fill in the defective areas with a foam fill or epoxy putty sand it all down and 8 inches or more around it the glass a piece on one side at a time overlapping at least 4 inches do the other side then another layer overlapping that piece by at least 4 inches. then a sanding coat then sand it all smooth. There are instructional videos on line. Make sure to accurately measure your epoxy resin in separate cups so that your resin hardens normally. Get an orbital sander to save your arms.

Might cost more than the board....

Why not price it at a shop to see what they charge? You could try yourself as a learning project if you want to learn, but if you want to actually surf it I wouldn't count on a first effort to hold up or work very well.

Big H wrote:Might cost more than the board....

I use the "like" button often enough. Now I am searching for the "Not Like" button (Big SMILE).

The board only cost 3 dollars the stuff to repair it maybe 30 dollars so for about 33 dollars and a lot of time and effort he has a board to use. If you have a pro do it then it might cost more than the board is worth but fix it yourself and you learn about fixing boards and you have a board to use and if not then you have some knowledge of what not to do for only 33 dollars.

1) How many ding repairs have you done before ?
2) How many fiberglass laminations have you done before ?
If the answers are None, then don't try to do it yourself. This repair is not like trying to do your first oil change on your car in your garage. It's more like trying to change out the transmission.

It has been used roughly 3 times since bought, im hoping to surf it eventually

Big H wrote:Might cost more than the board....

2 Rolls of waterproof duck tape will add extra flare and super lightweight might become the next style

waikikikichan wrote:1) How many ding repairs have you done before ?
2) How many fiberglass laminations have you done before ?
If the answers are None, then don't try to do it yourself. This repair is not like trying to do your first oil change on your car in your garage. It's more like trying to change out the transmission.

I haven't done anything like this before would be wise to just get it done professionally.

YungGrom wrote:

waikikikichan wrote:1) How many ding repairs have you done before ?
2) How many fiberglass laminations have you done before ?

I haven't done anything like this before would be wise to just get it done professionally.

Still haven't answered my questions. But anyways,.........Taking it to be professionally fixed should/would cost way over $100 U.S. ( my shop would be over $150 ). So your $3 boards turns into $103. Funny thing though, It's actually better if the board was in two pieces. The part thats still connected is "tensioning" against the open side. It difficult to laminate under the flap and get the rocker correct.

But if you have done repairs before, try as OMS said and give it a go. $3 board and whatever the materials/resin cost. But you better have a sander for that large area. Oh, and don't make a straight line band across when you wrap the deck and bottom. Make like a bow-tie or diamond pattern, to disperse the impact energy.

waikikikichan wrote:

YungGrom wrote:

waikikikichan wrote:1) How many ding repairs have you done before ?
2) How many fiberglass laminations have you done before ?

I haven't done anything like this before would be wise to just get it done professionally.

Still haven't answered my questions. But anyways,.........Taking it to be professionally fixed should/would cost way over $100 U.S. ( my shop would be over $150 ). So your $3 boards turns into $103. Funny thing though, It's actually better if the board was in two pieces. The part thats still connected is "tensioning" against the open side. It difficult to laminate under the flap and get the rocker correct.

But if you have done repairs before, try as OMS said and give it a go. $3 board and whatever the materials/resin cost. But you better have a sander for that large area. Oh, and don't make a straight line band across the deck when you wrap the deck and bottom. Make like a bow-tie or diamond pattern, to disperse the impact energy.

Thank you, and no I haven't had any experience with resin or repairs but might give it a go thank you!

YungGrom wrote:I haven't had any experience with resin or repairs but might give it a go thank you!

Please try fixing a broken tail or nose before tackling this huge task. Learn to properly saturate the fiberglass cloth and squeegee the excess resin out. WARNING: If you've never mixed resin and catalyst, the repair might never get hard or take a really longtime. Worst case, you can make a smoking pile of liquid that melts thru your board.

It's an epoxy board so no catalyst just a 2 part resin. I never fixed a broken board till after I had made one from scratch. I watched a guy who was really good at making boards make a board then went from memory a couple years later. Too much resin too little resin and knowing how to do the edges tape off the board squeegee it out and everything else I learned while making the board. Fortunately I had a good memory and I was a quick thinker which saved me from lots of problems. Epoxy resin is different because it is harder than polyester resin so the sanding part of epoxy is way more difficult so having an orbital sander is good but also making sure you don't have too much resin is more important and too little resin still sucks totally. But he is young and strong and hopefully a quick learner. There are lots of videos about fixing epoxy boards on the internet including fixing broken in half boards and a creased board should be dealt with just like it was broken in half because once you remove all the damaged glass it will be broken in half and that is what you need to do to get a solid fix. But it will be a big challenge for someone who never did any fixes before. It's important to tape off the patches so that you don't get resin where you don't want it. If you overlap the tape with glass you need to cut it (with a razor knife) before it gets hard (tacky but not wet) also remove the tape before it gets hard. It's important to maintain the rocker and not change the angle at the repair. Once again if you do it spend a lot of time going over all the videos on the internet first and ask questions here if you have any.

oldmansurfer wrote:It's an epoxy board so no catalyst just a 2 part resin.

For Epoxy resin, use a gram scale. Don't just eye ball it.

Thank you for all the helpful replys might just get it repaired by a local shaper but will make sure to look back if I do ever snap or crack a surfboard

One more thing, and those that know better please chime in.....you're addressed the "how", now get to the "why". As I understand it, epoxy boards, especially stringerless ones, depend on the superior tensile strength of epoxy resin for strength and integrity of the overall structure. Once there is a crease or snap, that tensile strength is disrupted and cannot be restored anywhere near the original levels with a repair.

In other words, I think you'll be doing yourself a favour if you bin it; don't waste your money. Take that 100-150 for the fix and set it aside for a board that has never been in two pieces.

Big H wrote:One more thing, and those that know better please chime in.....you're addressed the "how", now get to the "why". As I understand it, epoxy boards, especially stringerless ones, depend on the superior tensile strength of epoxy resin for strength and integrity of the overall structure. Once there is a crease or snap, that tensile strength is disrupted and cannot be restored anywhere near the original levels with a repair.

In other words, I think you'll be doing yourself a favour if you bin it; don't waste your money. Take that 100-150 for the fix and set it aside for a board that has never been in two pieces.

I already have a perfectly fine surfboard that will last me awhile Im hoping, It has no dings and has been used 3 times, It has just abit less volume I just think I can use it on decent days if we even decide to repair it