Step up board for Fiji and Indo

[Brunop]

Hi there,

I am a intermediate surfer currently living in Sydney, and I want to buy a step up board because I am going to Fiji next month, and Indonesia in June.

I am 20, 1,75 m (5'9''), 53 kilos (117 pounds). My fitness level is considerably above average.

About my surf:
My paddling is pretty good, I usually have no trouble catching waves, even if they are bigger or a bit fatter. I currently use a 6'0 Chilli (A2 Curve model), which has 23.5L. It is pretty old and I think there is some water inside, but I can still catch waves positioning myself further back than the line-up (that's how I like to position myself... I am almost always the last man in the line-up). I also have a 5'9'' with more volume for smaller days.

I usually get the drop right, occasionally landing a harder drop and very seldom an air-drop, but I still mess up the drop sometimes, especially in hollow waves.

After the drop, I usually just ride the face of the wave, get some speed (when the wave is good enough), maybe do some turns and eventually do a snap. I still fall in the middle of the wave more often than I should, and my stance is usually pretty bad (legs too open)

I really like surfing "big" waves. The biggest I've surfed was probably around 8-10 ft (more than double overhead). I've already gone to Indo twice, and surfed waves like Padang Padang and Lakey Peak, almost double overhead. Got smashed a lot, but also caught some really nice waves.


Now I am going to Fiji, surf Cloudbreak, than Bali and probably G-Land. I would like it to be overhead to maybe double overhead, but much more than that I think I cannot handle with my current ability, especially in waves breaking in shallow reef.

My question is: What should I look for in a step up board for those conditions? I'd like the board to have more volume so that I can get up faster, before the wave gets too hollow, and be stable enough to maybe get in some barrels, but I still wanted to be able to maneuver it so that I can do some turns. And obviously, I'd like to be able to duckdive it...


I was thinking about a 6'1 - 6'2, around 26-27L of volume, and the basic step-up characteristics (round or pin tail, more rocker...).

Do you think that's enough/too much volume for me? Should I go for a bigger board (6'3 - 6'4), with a similar volume?


Thank you very much!

PS: Sorry for the big text, I wanted it to be as detailed as possible.

PS2: Back home (Brazil) we usually don't get very big swells, so I wouldn't like something like a minigun, or a very big step-up, because I'd probably never use it again...

[jaffa1949]

Brunop, believe me when I say to you Cloudbreak at double overhead is an expert level wave, it is set on a shallow coral reef that bust boards bodies and at the least leashes, the power is much more raw and well beyond most.
At high tide you will probably never see your board again if you break your leash the kids 7 miles in shore on the mainland will get another new board.
Check out Frigates, Namotu , lighthouse. Wilkes or swimming pools they are better options for you.
Frigates is not in the same location as Cloudbreak and the Namotu breaks.

Now about G land, you will need to be capable of taking and riding a full deep throated freight train and surviving the reef, the only place I could see you being SAFE there is tiger tracks.

Seriously, I don't think you have experience genuine overhead let alone double overhead coral reef power, east coast Australia lacks the hit at that size without the cheese grater of the coral reef.
Every year both Cloudbreak and Gland see medivac at great cost for severe injury.

At double overhead at either, Pro surfers think twice.

Stay safe!

[Brunop]

Hi Jaffa1949, thanks for the answer!

You are probably right, I guess double overhead would be too much for me in waves like those. But I know I could handle at least a little more than overhead (something like this or a little bigger I'd definitely go for: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rm-3tmCGaZA). I've already surfed similar waves in Indonesia, breaking over pretty shallow reef, about that big or bigger, and I've improved considerably since then. The only problem would be crowds... if it is too crowded I'd probably not go for it.

And, as you said, there are other waves there that are not that gnarly. I've surfed almost double overhead Uluwatu without problems, for example... It is pretty deep in the high tide. G-Land is another story... I still have to think about it, I'll make my decision only after being some weeks in Indonesia.


So, rephrasing my original question... What kind of board would you recommend for a shoulder high to overhead Clouldbreak or overhead to almost double-overhead in the ""easier"" waves like the ones you mentioned (Frigates, Lighthouse...)

Thanks!

[jaffa1949]

I'd go a little longer and and a little wider with the width, depending where you are in Australia there are guys that specialist boards that would suit at say 6'2" or 6'4". Let me know where you are in Australia and there are off the rack boards that will suit,. take two boards one your normal and the longer.

[Brunop]

Hi Jaffa.

I am living in Sydney (Maroubra Beach).

My idea was to get a good condition second hand board, because I'm afraid to snap it... (it happened last time I went to Indo). For a second hand, I'd be willing to pay up to $450 dollars (if its in very good condition). For a new one, around $550.

I still want to buy another board (an all rounder) before leaving Australia in June, and for that one I'd like to get it brand new, maybe custom made. That's why I can't spend too much on my step-up...

A friend of mine suggested looking for a bigger board, like 6'3-6'4, but I've already been to some stores that sell second hand boards, and all 6'3+ boards I found with the right specifications for a step up had too much volume for me...

And yeah, I'll definitely take 2 boards. For Indonesia I'll take 3, because I'll have already bought my new all rounder.