Surfing Waves

Hi guys, moved to portugal after a surf trip here wouldn't allow me to leave )

Came here with my 9'6 Cortez longboard and now I've got a lot better and had a go on some shorter boards of friends (only briefly) I think I'm ready to take the step down to something a bit quicker (more manoeuvrable).
I'm 6'5" tall and weigh 16stone. What would you recommend? My paddling power is strong and pop up is quick of that makes any difference?
The waves are going to start getting big here soon and wanted something to practise on before that happens and I'm in big waves with a new, untested board.
Thanks

T

cravenbiker wrote:Hi guys, moved to portugal after a surf trip here wouldn't allow me to leave

Brilliant! Well done!

I wasn't sure from your post whether you meant getting a shorter longboard, or getting a shortboard? If its the latter, you probably wouldn't want to drop down 3ft in one go

I recommend you do what I did, which is to go for something around 7ft - 7ft6 (depending on how 'good' you are - the longer for the less good) but - and this is the key - make it a high volume board. Whether you go for a mini mal shape (like, say, the Walden magic) or a 'hybrid' shape (like, say, the Firewire Addvance), something that is still wide (22+) and thick (2 5/8+). As always, my board suggestions are just as a starting point for decision making, not recommending those actual boards. They are both easily findable on the web to start your searching for similar boards - there are many similar variations.

The benefit of the high volume is that you can maintain some paddling ease but with greater manouverability, plus keep the stability of a longer board. However, if you feel you are paddle fit and paddle skilled, and dont need the volume, then I still suggest something about 7ft and pretty wide as a transition board (or even a keeper). Remember that 20 years ago most pros were surfing boards in the high 6ft range, especially in bigger waves; its only in the last 10yrs or so that a 6ft board has become the 'norm'. So 7ft or so boards are very manouverable but still have the benefits you want moving down from a longboard.

You will probably find that standing up isnt too hard, but you have to learn to turn a bit different (much more sensitive) plus catching the wave is harder because you have to take off from a different spot than with a longboard and timing is much more important. So there is a bit of transition and a bit of 'guts' to take off much later than you are used to in a longboard (constantly thinking you are going to nose dive or whatever) - until you get used to it.

I wouldnt go too short, even though you may be tempted, because you just end up struggling for too long. Sure the next board you get may only be needed for 6 months or so, before you move to a shorter board; but jumping too many stages isnt worth the angst

Great advice. I'll start looking for something around the 7'6 mark then with a similar volume as you mentioned. I'm not sure about what shape though. Does it depend on the type of waves that I'm surfing? Ie the size or shape?
Tha is for your help so far.

My understanding is:

wider nose (eg mini mal): easier paddling, more lift, greater stability but harder to turn (got to get that nose around), often less rocker (bad for steeper waves), often harder to 'fit' into steep waves.

hybrid or 'pointy nose' shapes - basically the opposite to the above. Easier to duck dive, often.

Essentially wider nosed boards are easier to surf but less manouverable, less sensitive and not as good in steep waves.

I tossed up between a hybrid and a mini mal shape for a while, leaning toward a hybrid, and ended up talking to a shaper. He asked me to list all the things I wanted from my board - from paddling ability, stability, more waves or more turning etc - and it became obvious that I should go with a wide nose. However, my biggest issue was paddling fitness because I dont live on the coast and dont surf constantly. If I did - and perhaps you do - then the choice would be less obvious.

That said, if you are looking around 7ft6, almost all boards will be a mal shape (wider nose). Its only when you get close to 7ft that the narrower noses start becoming more prevalent. Given your weight, you probably will want the volume offered by a wider nose and given your height, the stability the wider nose gives. But see if you can find a mini mal with a narrow tail (look up, for example, the 'grant miller powerglide' - you wont be able to get one as its an Australia shaper, but his website describes some of the things to look for).

Of course, without knowing your skill level its a bit hard to say for sure. If you surf frequently, then either option will be fine. Its encouraging that you dont want to jump down to a 6ft board; so any reasonably wide/thick board over 7ft should be fine regardless of the nose shape.

Hi All,

Thank you for all the informative posts. I am new on this forum and posting from San Diego, CA.

I have a question somewhat similar to cravenbiker's on recommendations for a shorter board. I learned surfing on an 8'6" board (took >6M to pop up comfortably but I was persistent), round nose (assume would fit the mini mal or mal definition), surf 2-3 times a week, weigh 180lb and 5'8" height.

I have a fairly good, quick pop-up (almost too automatic!) and like the board and walk the board but have a problem with turning to ride the face. My question/dilemma is: should I first learn to comfortably turn my 8-6 board or switch to something more maneuverable? I am thinking ~7' hybrid, fish or just a shorter version of my mini mal.

Thanks in advance.

learn to turn, going short you would feel like you are on a skateboard on a very steep hill with the death wobbles. You are in a major learning stage in the white water which is nothing near surfing ,it is you that is having difficulty turning, not the board length.
Here is a 9ft board with a guy that can turn. viewtopic.php?f=15&p=167616#p167616 Get your skills up and then you will start to get an appreciation of where you want to go in your surfing and be able to buy a board for your next step

Thanks for the quick reply. I sort of expected to hear this, as I do want to learn to surf well on my longboard. As background, San Diego surf has been quite poor the past >2 months with mostly <1ft waves and occasional very steep angle 3-4+ ft waves which only a few experienced short boarders seem able to ride.

I guess this is part of the challenge or learning to surf: you can't choose the surface conditions on which to practice:)

Which leaves me the options: either learn to ride occasional steep angle waves with my long board or go elsewhere to surf... Hopefully change of seasons brings better waves to ride.

Guys can ride Pipeline on longboards, there are just different approaches needed to take off even on steep small waves.
Short period steep waves need an angled takeoff with longboards unless you are a master of the true bottom turn, ( unlikely at this this stage in your learning). Have a real good read of the posts and threads and go watch some longboard masters and see how they do what they do.

The only days I have not been able to take off even on a steep wave is where there has been a ferocious offshore wind and a I have not been able to get the board to take the drop nose first. heavy wipeouts and an understanding of why the fiercest waves are almost exclusively a short board zone at my my skill level