Surfing Waves

http://www.southpointepoxy.com/index.ph ... =bonga91m2
South Point Bonga Perkins MK2 Longboard 9"1
For $600 usd. On most website online I see that it goes up to $900. It is brand new and have never been in water. It has 2 scratches due to transporting it around. Comes with FCS EZI fin. Not like I have got any clue whether it is a good deal or not. Reading from their website, it is suitable for intermediate but I'm still a beginner, as can be seen from my previous post that I do experience quite a lot of perling.

My height is 172cm and 62kg. I'll only be surfing at a sandy beach and they said during the summer the waves will gradually decrease in size. It won't be much higher than waist. I got pictures of the area that I'll be surfing it it helps to choose the right board.

I don't have a board at the moment and I've been renting it all the time. I've rented at least more than a dozen times and with that money I could've bought myself a board. Cost $16 to rent each day here.

I asked one of the shop owner and he said because I go at least 2-3 times a week, I should perhaps purchase a shortboard more suitable for a beginner. Like a 6"3 Torq board http://www.torq-surfboards.com/fish-63.html He said I will struggle for a long time but he would advise that I go for that board as it is sturdy and tough so it won't break that easily. In addition, the 6"3 board will allow me to fit it into the car so I don't have to install a roof rack.

The LB is marketed as for intermediates but its seems generally fine for beginners. Possibly it has a bit too much rocker (the curve on the board from tail to nose looking at it sideways) but its not excessive. Greater rocker helps with turning but makes it a bit harder to paddle. And thinner rails means the volume is reduced, but thats fairly marginal. So, and not knowing the board at all, from the dimensions on the website it seems not too bad.

Not so sure about the EZI fin, you might want to swap out for a more standard fin (maybe 9inch centre fin). But I've never used the EZI fin so it might be ok. However, this is something to look for if you are struggling.

Going shorter isnt bad or good. Its just harder. One thing I've learnt about good shortboard surfers is that they often regard any board over about 6ft8 as huge, so will recommend boards like the 6ft3 and think its a good board because its quite wide. I dont think its the best board for you by a long way. As a shortboard its fine, but as a beginner board not really. I mean, why do you want to struggle for a long time just to get a board that fits in your car?

If you want to go shorter, then something like a 7ft2 or 7ft4 minimal or hybrid is a much better choice. Its not as good as the longboard as a beginner board, but if you are surfing 2-3 times a week then perhaps its a reasonable choice.

I say this all the time, but surfing is not a sport where your first board is your last board. As you get better you will buy new boards, go shorter or buy different styles for different surf or whatever. Its just the way it is; so trying to make your first board suit how you will surf in 12 months time is pointless. Thats why buying a 2nd hand LB is often good - you may want to move to a new board in 6 months time.

Buying a 6ft3 board now may mean that in 6 months time you are still struggling to catch waves and learning to pop up; buying a LB now means that in 6 months time you are catching waves all the time and standing and want to start doing different things so need a new board. Which seems better?

Buy the Bonga cause it's longa,
for a beginner it's a winner
If you wish
there's the shorter fish.
It will fit in your car
which is no great deal
cause frustration you'll feel.
so say it again
buy the bonga cause it's longa
and it won't go wronga.
So you see
heed DTC.

buy the bonga cause it's longa!

I will buy a LB then....

Would you advise to buy a cheaper/older one? I saw an old Southpoint and a BIC 2-3 years old for around $280 USD but they both have the general wear and tear plus some minor repairs. Or a one week old 9'2 South Point Kalama for $500?

The bonga seems like a good deal as it only has paint scratch but it might be a waste spending so much since it is my first board?

I'd forget the BIC, my opinion is they are good beginner boards but they make better pens! Second hand and repaired could be hiding a lots of problems.
The south point might be OK but look for water damage and delamination around any dings the glass is puffy or squashy and then don't buy if this is the case.
Either the Kalama or the Bonga will be good for several years until you find your feet, , a good secondhand one will be Ok from the time you will be at this level but you need to know what the overall condition is!

Simple maths is cheap and in good conditon, = bonus buy
cheap and in average condition, you will pay to have fixed= dubious
lower than that don't touch.
get a good board repair well if necessary after any dings you give it, when you are ready on sell the preloved board recover so money towards the new board you are ready for!

Jaffa, impressive rhymes there, ever thought of hitting the silver grom rap circuit?

BaNZ, I couldnt find the Kalama on the web other than as a SUP; but presumably its not that. So whether its better than the bonga I dont know.

As Jaffa said, at the end of the day you want a board you like not a board you dont trust or worry about. The $200 difference will be forgotten on the first ride across a green wave.

And, lets face it, once you get a leash and a wetsuit and roof racks and wax and a few fins and petrol and the rest, $200 will seem like nothing at all...and then you will want to go to Bali or Hawaii

You can sell the board when (if) you move on or, if you look after it and have no bad luck, keep the board for years and years. Use it for visitors or people who think surfing looks 'like fun' and think it cant be very hard ... (I get perverse pleasure out of doing this for the first 5 minutes, then rescue my now not so arrogant friends). My LB is about 20 years old (bought 2nd hand) and is almost as good as it was when made.

I think it is this one http://www.tikisurf.co.uk/9%272%20South ... dKHfJzGVGI but there isn't much information on the spec.

I'm more worried of getting it damaged if it was an expensive board not so much if it was cheap. I managed to snap a foamie board in half on my first day from perling, in my defence the board was already slightly bent and damaged when I got it. Therefore I always have this mental image of the board snapping in half if I take another nasty nose dive. Luckily I'm in SE Asia so going to Bali won't be an expensive flight.

Yes, I'm looking at rooftop and wetsuit. Getting stung by jellyfish last week wasn't nice but not as painful as I thought. The water temperature is around 27C now so there are plenty of jellyfish at the beach.

Oh jaffa, I was searching for spots to surf in my area and I saw your post that you have been to Taiwan too! I've been to Nanwan beach and I'm currently living on the north east coast.

BaNz yes I've been to Taiwan, unfortunately the east coast was out of control as a typhoon passed out to sea from the Philippines to Japan and although it didn't make land fall the swell certainly did.
Too much for Chonglang Yeh Yeh, as the people in Nanwan called me!

Bit of a trek to the south but lots of spots on the east coast suit beginners, I hope you can swim well as a lot of times you will need to be reliant on your own resources !
Other than that the people who surf are quite friendly ( but I was an obvious foreigner ) and happy to share experience!

BTW don't worry about breaking a normal board, most beginner spots are kind to boards, get it dinged get it fixed.

I'll send an email to a friend of mine in Nanwan, and see if he can offer you direct advice and of course he is Ok with that!
If it is cool I will swap details so you can go from there! Are you OK with that .

Apparently typhoon comes quite frequently during summer period. Two weeks ago there was a typhoon that went past Philippines as well. The wave was at least 7-8 feet tall and the frequency was too high, I rented a body board instead as I didn't feel like suiciding. There were still loads of people surfing and I thought they were nuts.

Hehe, you probably have some grey hairs for them to call you grandpa? hehe. Nanwan waves are small not as good as the ones in Jialeshuei. But I don't like that beach cos the stones are too big over there. I got my ankle caught between two stone and hit by a wave . It's been few months and I still haven't recovered from my injury.

There is a reason why that I'm worried about breaking the board. As can be seen from the photo attached. This two picture is taken around the same time on a weekend and only 10km apart. The crowded seems to be more beginner friendly. The waves are better and the sand goes quite far outside. But the surfers there doesn't have much etiquette, me and my friend got hit by two different board within 15 minutes of getting in the water. Saying that I have also taken a nose dive and the board came smashing down another surfer head. It seems to be the norm over there as they didn't even mind, they carried on paddling as if we weren't there. I'm planning to go to the crowded beach on weekday because I finish work at 5 and the sunset is around 7pm.

It's a pity that you didn't go to Taitung as I heard it has got the best wave in Taiwan. I was planning to go down to Kenting / nanwan at the end of July. But after seeing pictures of the beach on facebook. I don't think I will enjoy it. There is way too many people down there. If your friend is from afei shop then I probably know him already! I saw the picture you took and it is the place where I stayed a few months ago. But yes, it would be nice to meet your friend and get to know more locals here. I really like Kenting and was even looking to make it a holiday home.

ok, I guess me complaining when there are 8 people in the water at the same time is probably a bit selfish...

You will definitely need a longboard for those waves!

BaNZ wrote:Apparently typhoon comes quite frequently during summer period. Two weeks ago there was a typhoon that went past Philippines as well. The wave was at least 7-8 feet tall and the frequency was too high, I rented a body board instead as I didn't feel like suiciding. There were still loads of people surfing and I thought they were nuts.

Hehe, you probably have some grey hairs for them to call you grandpa? hehe. Nanwan waves are small not as good as the ones in Jialeshuei. But I don't like that beach cos the stones are too big over there. I got my ankle caught between two stone and hit by a wave . It's been few months and I still haven't recovered from my injury.

There is a reason why that I'm worried about breaking the board. As can be seen from the photo attached. This two picture is taken around the same time on a weekend and only 10km apart. The crowded seems to be more beginner friendly. The waves are better and the sand goes quite far outside. But the surfers there doesn't have much etiquette, me and my friend got hit by two different board within 15 minutes of getting in the water. Saying that I have also taken a nose dive and the board came smashing down another surfer head. It seems to be the norm over there as they didn't even mind, they carried on paddling as if we weren't there. I'm planning to go to the crowded beach on weekday because I finish work at 5 and the sunset is around 7pm.

It's a pity that you didn't go to Taitung as I heard it has got the best wave in Taiwan. I was planning to go down to Kenting / nanwan at the end of July. But after seeing pictures of the beach on facebook. I don't think I will enjoy it. There is way too many people down there. If your friend is from afei shop then I probably know him already! I saw the picture you took and it is the place where I stayed a few months ago. But yes, it would be nice to meet your friend and get to know more locals here. I really like Kenting and was even looking to make it a holiday home.

AaaaH BaNz, I surfed both the south and east coasts of Taiwan, but the east coast all the way up to Bashien Dong was typhoon effected 45ft + and the full washing machine on death cycle, not for Chonglangyehyeh at 63 years of grey hair.
There was some surf in a bay near Taidong ( taitung) and it was the one day I was without a board , it is even on a mellow day a n above intermediate spot, boulder bottom, a lot of the east coast good breaks are boulder bottoms on river mouth bars or on the edge of breakwaters.

I was really keen to surf Bashien Dong and Taidong but the typhoon beat that away!

Nanwan in Kenting is Taiwan's equivalent of Bondi Beach, crowded with learners but amazingly enough they sit aside and watch better surfers ride and tend to stay emassed on softboards all together they are all being taught to ride the soft boards left foot forward ( natural footed) so they all want to go straight or right. That freed the goofy foot left handers for me!.
there were some good surfers there and the potential on its day is to be very good!
This is over the reef at the northern end of the bay towards the Atomic reactors.

I surfed Jialeshuei several times and there is great potential there the was a river mouth bar as well as the point, once again everyone was going right off the bar and there was a perfect little left hander on the other edge of the boulder bar
This break has potential to be a classic up to about 6ft

I know the picture is of the Afei surf shop, they knew me but my friend is Sammy from FuDog, which has the Aloha kitchen on the street!The guys in the Kitchen are AnAn Lai and Aries Tsang, the guys surf at about this level

NOw your final question, buy the board, get surfing take the time to surf in less crowded conditions, the soft board beginners usually cluster where they can be taught together, there is often a break to one side where they are not!

It doesn't look too sunny when you were there. Since there was typhoon, it must be summer when you last went?

How come you went to Taiwan for surfing holiday? I don't think it is a popular location.

So if I'm normal foot, I'm suppose to surf right side? I manage to go left but I see that it is harder to balance.

63 is a good age... then I shouldn't worry that I might not be able to carry on for too long. I only picked up surfing at 30 and was worried that my body cannot cope with it.

dtc wrote:Not so sure about the EZI fin, you might want to swap out for a more standard fin (maybe 9inch centre fin). But I've never used the EZI fin so it might be ok. However, this is something to look for if you are struggling.

I tried out the new board last weekend. Saturday wave was way too big for me. It was above my height. I nose dive every single time and tumbled hard. I find that the board is front heavy and the back is slimmer plus lighter so it is very easy to peril. It was so depressing and I saw some a really good surfer who rented a funboard foamie and was surfing 6-7 feet waves.... I don't understand how he can wait until the wave breaks on top of him and then stand up. He only probably paddled a few strokes and is able to catch the wave. He is a bit chubby and doesn't look very well built. I was paddling very hard as the wave looks huge and was thick + fast.

The fin looks a lot smaller than the usual foamie board I use. I removed the side fin as I've only used centre fin before. The board slides a lot when I try and ride the wave. You might be right about getting another centre fin? My friends said I should be using 3 fin if the wave is big, it will make the board more stable so I might try that next time.

On Sunday the wave is a lot smaller and calm about 2-3 feet. I manage to surf better but it felt like I've gone backwards as I can't surf along the waves like I used to with a foamie. I surf regular foot and I struggle to surf right across the wave. But I can go left across.... which is very odd. Because now there is wax on the board, I see that I use my left knee a lot when trying to stand up on the board as I got wax over it and there are some bruises.

edit: thinking about it now. I nose dive so hard on saturday because I wasn't surfing across the wave. I was going directly at the beach so it was a steep fall. I tried to lean back as much as I can but I have no control over the board. If I had taken 1-2 steps back then I might have made it.

You seem to have experienced every beginner frustration in the same day...

I'm not sure if you are thinking this, but I can assure you that the surfer catching lots of waves on a foamie was not catching more waves because he was on a foamie; he was catching more waves because he is a good surfer. Its not the board that was making the difference, it was the skills.

Similarly, I don't expect its the board that is causing you to perl (as you spotted in your edit) - again, its 'just' a skill issue. One that is hard to overcome perhaps, but its not the board.

In terms of fins I'm no expert and Jaffa may have some thoughts. But in bigger waves I would definitely use all three fins, they will give much more hold on the wave. If you are finding the board is too loose (ie slipping on the wave) then you do need more fin area and using three fins will deal with that. I would suggest keeping all three fins in until you get used to the board - there is nothing wrong with one fin, but at this stage changing things around on the board while you are still learning how it feels is just adding additonal complication. So I would just put in the side fins and keep the current centre fin and see how you go.

There is a learning curve for any new board and you will certainly feel the difference between a foam board (bouyant, slow, flexible, hard to turn) and a 'proper' board (faster, less bouyant, stiffer, easier to turn - even if not intentionally!). They might look like they have a similar shape but they are quite different in feel and it will take a few sessions to get used to it. So just stick with it and you will - maybe frustratingly slowly - start figuring out what to do. And soon you will have progressed well past your foamie skill level.