Surfing Waves

What's up guys.

I've got 2 leash problems with my boards. The first one ripped off in half when I was surfing. The waves were bigger than the average I use to surf, about 5-6 feet (not much, I know, but where I live the waves are usually 2-3 feet). When I got to the beach and took a deeper look, I saw that it was all full with little rips (that were probably already there for a while, but I didn't notice). Why do you think it happened? I washed it every time I got out of the water... One last thing, as my board is a little big for me and I am very light, I can't duck dive, so I constantly let my board go and dive to avoid the waves, do you think that might have caused it?

The second leash problem is with my other board. It always get tangled in my feet and I end up falling. It's very annoying, happens every time I go surfing. I don't know if it is too small or too big... My board is 6'2'' and the leash about 6'8''.

Thanks a lot,

Brunop

The nicks on your leash probably come from the fins, with the leash bouncing against them and so forth all the time - run your hands over the fins and see if they are sharp. You can sand down the edges a bit - not sure if this has significant consequences to performance but, from what I have read, it shouldnt.

As to duck diving - try getting off your board but holding onto the nose with your hand. Duck yourself under the water and pull the nose down with you. It wont work in big waves (the waves will pull the board out of your hands) but in small/mid waves you should be able to keep a good grip. Much better (and safer) than throwing your board everywhere and means your board is right there to start paddling.

Tip for beginners: wax the nose of your board and under the front, so you can get a good grip! Dont need to wax very much, just enough for your hand.

If you want to get a bit advanced and are strong enough, turn your board sideways (so the sides point directly up) and do the same thing. If you are 90 deg to the wave, it will usually wash right by you (but if you arent, the board might smack into you).

If the waves are small enough, just push your body up above the white water while still on the board. Like the top of a push up. The water goes between you and the board.

Brunop wrote:What's up guys.

I've got 2 leash problems with my boards. The first one ripped off in half when I was surfing. The waves were bigger than the average I use to surf, about 5-6 feet (not much, I know, but where I live the waves are usually 2-3 feet). When I got to the beach and took a deeper look, I saw that it was all full with little rips (that were probably already there for a while, but I didn't notice). Why do you think it happened? I washed it every time I got out of the water... One last thing, as my board is a little big for me and I am very light, I can't duck dive, so I constantly let my board go and dive to avoid the waves, do you think that might have caused it?

The second leash problem is with my other board. It always get tangled in my feet and I end up falling. It's very annoying, happens every time I go surfing. I don't know if it is too small or too big... My board is 6'2'' and the leash about 6'8''.

Thanks a lot,

Brunop

Brunop,if you can't duck dive you could always do a turtle roll, don't do the sideways thingy suggest above!!!
Please do not let go of your board, that is a major way to be dangerous to yourself and anyone else in the water, it is so dangerous and someone with little restraint will end up wanting to punch you or your fins out for it. (I don't condone that sort of stuff but some hot heads do it.)
Read up all the posts on duck diving, it really is a matter of technique.

About your major question, leashes wear out and all your letting go of the board could be putting little fin nicks in the leash and you are puting a stretch force on the leash every wave.

This may sound unkind, but it is true, if you cannot duck dive and paddle your wave out without throwing your board away you have no business being out in 5 to 6 ft surf.
There will come a situation while you are doing that where someone will be riding a wave and you will go to go under and throw your board, chaos and anger will ensue or it might come to pass that you throw your board with someone behind you, same result.

You are a beginner and that is great but take it slowly learn your skills and gradually you will become more and more competent to handle bigger and better surfs!

Thx for the answers.

Just to make it clear, I don't always let go my board... of course I don't do it when there are people nearby, I don't want to hurt anyone. When I see there are people behind me I try the turtle roll or if the wave is too big I just hold myself to the board as strong as I can. But I will keep practicing the duck dive. The thing is that my board is very wide, and I am extremely light (115-120 pounds), so it's like trying to duck dive in a longboard! When I push the nose down, the nose almost doesn't sink, instead I am lifted up (like I am doing a push up)... It's very annoying, I've been surfing for a while now (2 years +-), and I don't consider myself a beginner anymore, the only thing that hold me back is the duck dive. =/

And about my second question, if someone know why my other leash is constantly getting tangled in my feet, please explain... I need to buy a new one this week, and I don't want to buy it wrong again. Should it be longer or shorter?

I had the same problem when I first started with leash tangling I ended up having a leash to long for the board size so I got a shorter one and it works a lot better for me. I went from a seven foot to a six foot leash. Just make sure your comfortable with it because having a shorter leash does increase the chance of getting a gnarly smack to the face a little. Thats one reason most beginners have long leashes.

Brunop wrote:
And about my second question, if someone know why my other leash is constantly getting tangled in my feet, please explain... I need to buy a new one this week, and I don't want to buy it wrong again. Should it be longer or shorter?

I'd also look at whether the least has decent swivels so that it doesn't spiral around underwater, and I'd look at how you store it out of the water if you wrap it in coils it may tend to try and recover those in the water . About the same length as short board or just a little shorter, is usually a good option and go longer for bigger surfs. Long board require a long leash because people walk the board!!!
There are also grades of leash have a good look at the various types.
Oh and experiment with which direction you leash points out from the wrap around your ankle, I have mine pointing to the outside of my ankle not straight out from the back or into the middle that stopped a lot of tangles

I'm glad you are aware of letting go ,so many people aren't , that I had to mention it as a general comment (not to disrespect you)

Thanks again guys,

I think I am gonna buy a shorter leash, the one I have now is considerably longer than my 6'2'' board...

And jaffa, don't worry, I did not feel disrespected at all

Anytime just stoked I could help and like Jaffa stated make sure it isn't an "El Cheapo" swivel.

Make sure your leash doesn’t have any kinks. This will cause it to wrap around your legs. Check out my video on the subject.

I guess I have a leash problem, too.
Anytime a leash is put on me, I get the urge to walk all fours and bark!