Surfing Waves

I have a 6'2, 19.5, double winged swallow tail thruster that is designed for small waves. I've been surfing it for a couple of years now and I am quite comfortable with the board however when surfing larger faster waves I get kinda stretched out. Admittedly, this is partially because I am new to overhead waves.

My question is, would getting bigger fins help me out in steeper, faster surf? I'm a little strapped for cash and I'll probably only be surfing larger wave like 10 times a year max.

Also, if I was to get a new board for larger surf, would a regular performance thruster work better than my small wave board or should I get more of a larger 'step up' kinda board?

Really appreciate any advice.

If you want a board for bigger surf conditions I would get a step up board or a rounded pin tail that will hold in better in bigger surf. That can help give you the confidence you are looking for. As far as your other issue you could possibly just get a bigger back fin and that will give you a bit more hold in for larger surf without a lot of cost. It does not sound like that board is really suited for big waves though. Having more than one surfboard can definetly help you for all the different surf conditions. I think you are on the right track.

thanks tony. i'm surfing kinda rural here so it's hard to get good advice. the only other surfers i see usually travel in my car and the nearest surf shop is 3 hours away, so i pretty much like to know what i'm gonna do before i make the drive.

so you don't think a normal squash tail thruster would be any better for big waves than what i've got now? my paddling and wave catching are pretty good from a life time of compeitive swimming, body surfing and ocean lifeguarding. my pop-up could use work and i know i need to comit more paddling into big waves. part of the problem is i'm ususally surfing sub-zero air temps and nearly zero water temps when it's big. getting held down is no fun when it's that cold.

Poor buggers you and Tony g , have a major paddling problem, using your muscles to drive the acres of neoprene you have to wear to keep out the subzero, I admire you guys and Buttertoes and all cold climate surfers, WOW, we are heading into our winter water might get to 13C, but strangely enough it does that at the height of summer, air 40C sand foot scorching and then you hit the cold ( well for us anyway) water and any appendage a male has withdraws to become two lumps in your throat
It doesn't hit as hard when the air temperature is below water temp., and we get maybe two days of subzero per year.
But hey we have just had here on the south coast of southern New south Wales our worst flood in forty years, 12 metres above normal river heights. The sharks are getting a lot of drowned cows to feed on . ( spooky)
Chocolate coloured surf.

Ha, thanks for the 'eat my xxxxx' email jaffa.

Cold weather surfing has it moments, you have to take the good with that bad and learn to enjoy the hassles as part of the adventure. Over the past winter, I've had to drive almost an hour to get to an impassible road, from there I hike, surfboard in tow, nearly 30 minutes in waist deep snow. When I arrive I might be greeted to beautiful pealing head-high point break or I might get skunked. Either way I try and appreciate the beauty of where I am, and be thankful that I am capable of making the trip while many others would be unwilling or unable.

That being said, I would trade it in a second to have the ability to walk barefoot to the beach and surf in boardshorts everyday... someday.

cheekobonavista wrote:Ha, thanks for the 'eat my xxxxx' email jaffa.

Cold weather surfing has it moments, you have to take the good with that bad and learn to enjoy the hassles as part of the adventure. Over the past winter, I've had to drive almost an hour to get to an impassible road, from there I hike, surfboard in tow, nearly 30 minutes in waist deep snow. When I arrive I might be greeted to beautiful pealing head-high point break or I might get skunked. Either way I try and appreciate the beauty of where I am, and be thankful that I am capable of making the trip while many others would be unwilling or unable.

That being said, I would trade it in a second to have the ability to walk barefoot to the beach and surf in boardshorts everyday... someday.

I'm actually not asking you to eat XXXXX as I said I admire and I'm continually amazed and applaud people like you who trudge through snow and stuff like that to surf. When you get to a warm climate you will notice the great difference and freedom of just surfing in boardshorts The beauty aspect too would be unique! Thank God the bears are hibernating.

To get back on the thread, the bigger back fin could be a cheap option and have a look at my fin primer that may help too.
Swallow tails can have a lot of release from top turn, and depending on the shape of the swallow can be a bit skatey in the initial bottom turn which will pull your confidence back a bit. Going up to say 6' 10 a with a rounded pin is a good answer with a good volume for entry paddle power would help, keep your eye out and see if you can borrow something in that range to see how it works for you!

One trouble in an area where you don't get consistent and constant bigger powerful waves is most surfers lose some of their touch between swells. I notice my takeoff timing , paddle power and judgement are all a little uncoordinated if there is a lag between swells and I have to go back a couple of notches.
BTW; Just as a peculiarity XXXX is a Queensland Australia beer, the local joke is that Queenslanders are so uneducated they can't spell beer

thanks jaffa, i know what you mean about feeling akward after being out for a while. unfortunatly for me, if there are surfable waves 2 days a week i'm doing good.