bernard wrote:It's weird how everyone says go long for your first board or while you're learning.
I;m gonna be controversial here!
I think it depends what your end goal is. For example, when I started surfing I wanted to get on a short board. However, everyone I spoke to said to get a mal or mini-mal. So i did. I picked up loads of bad habits as a longboard is too forgiving. I didn't learn to pop up properly (i went to a knee first or used my rear foot over the fins rather than 1 movement)
When I went short, I had to unlearn what I had learned, then relearn.....I'm still struggling with the shorter boards as a result of going long in the early days.
So consider where you want to be at a progressed stage of your surfing.
....and by the way - that's just an opinion, I'm no expert!
That is a reasonable call Bernard, the knee up pop up problem is not unique to long boards it's more a learner thing, but you are right the forgiveness of longer boards is a reason why longer boards are an answer, trouble is people want to get results quickly and that is why they so often go long.
Volume is an answer instead of length in some cases, but when the surfers themselves are "voluminous" then small wafer boards are not going to cut it.
One of the hardest aspects of surfing is that there are no bunny slopes with instructors guiding you all the way down and correcting habits as they occur. There is also so much difference between each level of ability required.
White water wash in surfing
First times across the face in poo stance
First turns and more elegant stance
taking it to steeper waves
etc you can segment it as much as you like it is your journey and your opinion is valid.
If you are struggling with bits and pieces of what you do get a mate to video you surfing. Study what you do and figure out how to do it differently.
BTW it is rather a rude shock to see yourself surfing for the first time, often the wave as you remember it is nothing like what you see in the video. I came away with a bruised ego

from some of my personal footage but made some good changes.
