What should I ride for OH to Double OH

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What should I ride for OH to Double OH

Postby surfobx » Fri Aug 21, 2009 1:09 pm

So we're supposed to get 8-12' waves this weekend good conditions. My buddy just shaped me a board like the ...Lost shark. It's 6'3" x 21" x 2-5/8". It's a 5 fin and I've been riding it as a quad. This is my first quad and I absolutely love it. I've had it in chest to head already and the performace was great for me. I'm wondering if I should 1. even take this board in double OH? and 2. if I do should I change it to 3 fins? My other board is a 6'6" x 20-7/8" x 2-1/2". I also have an old 7'2" that doesn't have much rocker and a old 6'8" about the same as the 6'6". Can anyone help me make my decision on my board selection? I'm leaning towards my new 6'3" or my second newest the 6'6", which both are about the same dimensions except the length. Like I said I feel really great on my new 6'3", but quad or thruster? I'm 6' 165-170 lbs. Any thoughts?

Thanks!
J
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Re: What should I ride for OH to Double OH

Postby trifish » Fri Aug 21, 2009 3:19 pm

Thrusters seem to hold better in bigger surf. I would go with which ever one you can paddle fast, get to your feet early and quick, and has enough rocker for the shape of the wave. Faster you get to your feet and into the wave the better chance you have on not getting mutilated. Also usually you want a narrow width/nose for less drag. Then again, if your asking this question I kinda wonder if you should be out in double overhead surf. Thats some serious water moving around.
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Re: What should I ride for OH to Double OH

Postby isaluteyou » Fri Aug 21, 2009 4:53 pm

if your asking this question I kinda wonder if you should be out in double overhead surf. Thats some serious water moving around.


I beg to differ i still ask questions to myself about what board i should take in Big conditions its one of the issues/joys of having a larger quiver. :D

In answer to original poster - it really depends on the shape of the wave. No doubt DOH any shape is powerfull and a lot to deal with. But are we talking about 12ft style wedge waves? 12ft thick reef? 12ft closeout beachbreak? or punchy 12ft tubing reef? - - - its unlikely i would take out the same board in those different conditions.

It also goes down to personal preference :example: i have seen footage of guys ripping up tehupoo on quad fin set-ups it obviously works for them.

Its not just fin set-ups but the whole board set-up that makes the difference e.g tail shapes, rocker profile, thickness etc etc... in other words its not impossible to surf a retro fish in giant waves but its probably wholley unsuitable.

The best way to find out is to experiment a classic example is on one of the biggest days i have surfed (16ft+) i was on a 6'8 swallow tail shortboard and it preformed fine. I have also taken a quad set-up in super hollow crunchy waves and preformed just fine. Its up to you to make your own judgement on what works for you :D

Oh in larger surf you really want something has a fair bit of paddle power. The last thing you want to be is under gunned otherwise you are not gonna beable to paddle into a wave and if you do you will be taking off really really late. Having a board that is too squirlly in the tail is probably not a great idea either. Of course you should be comfortable with the board :wink:
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Re: What should I ride for OH to Double OH

Postby surfobx » Fri Aug 21, 2009 8:14 pm

Thanks for the replies. DOH is definitely not something I do very often, and having a small wave east coast quiver I have never let that hold me back from trying anything. Now I have been in 8' that was very fast and tubing like crazy and I had nothing for it whether it was my board or skill I don't know. Probably both. There were Pro's out that day with tiny potato chip boards. So I am hoping for a more laid back wave. If it's super tubey then I can't step to it. I've had my 6'6" out in 10' and had a blast, but it was super easy. I think I'll bring a few boards just in case. I'm curious to try my quad in this though. It seems to me that it has MORE hold power and turning is easier too. When I first rode it I was amazed at how smooth and effortless it was. Like you say though, Paddling power is a big deal too. I might need the extra foam. Guess I'll figure it out when I get there. Thanks and I'll let you guys know on Monday.
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Re: What should I ride for OH to Double OH

Postby trifish » Fri Aug 21, 2009 10:36 pm

cool man, sounds like fun if it hits at a nice peeling break that can handle the size. Ive been out on some large days at my local beach breaks and theres nothing like having that wall form up on you and sit ontop ya, haha. Ive actually had some pretty fun sessions in large surf with my short retro fish even though its ment for the complete opposite, so who knows, maybe your quad will perform nice for ya out there. Shoot some picks if you can, I hear that the eastcoast is going off right now from the storm moving through.
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Re: What should I ride for OH to Double OH

Postby surfobx » Sat Aug 22, 2009 11:10 pm

Well the surf was not what I expected. 6-8' and closeout central. Kinda disappointed. Thinking tomorrow morning should be better. I'll try to remember my cam. The quad was good though.
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