Am i on the right track? 2nd board plan (Kind of long sorry)

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Am i on the right track? 2nd board plan (Kind of long sorry)

Postby Pornstar » Wed Nov 05, 2008 2:01 am

Hi guys.
I currently own a 7´0 hybrid.
It has a wide nose, some little rocker and kick in the tail. Its pretty beefy at the middle but shortboard-skinny-like at the nose and tail. The bottom has a shallow single concave and a round thumb tail.
From all the other boards i have used this one just rocks for me at medium and small surf.
I mainly surf at beachbreaks. Chest to slightly overhead. But we do have beaches around here that whenever the swell is nice throw nice hollow OHeaders.

I want to get a second board for the bigger OH and plus days. Specially for the steep /hollow days. I am planning on having it custom made by a shaper in Los Cabos for around $400 bucks with some extra glassing to make it stronger.
I will be keeping my board for the small medium days or for mellow breaks.

I dont want to struggle duckdiving my hybrid on those days. Also the full rails dont help much to dig in the rail on steep drops or while riding the wave´s face. And the rocker sucks for steep drops.

I am thinking about a 6´4 shortboard with a wider than normal fuller nose. I love just how i put weight on the nose on my hybrid to catch the waves, it also provides a stable platform that i apreciate being a newbie, and when i put weight on it while im on the waves face to gather speed it doesnt sink or dig in the rail. No need to be pumping like crazy just a swirl on the fins and off it goes.

So a fuller nose and a low entry rocker with a slight kick in the tail.
I wouldnt want a more extreme rocker to have more help on paddling and because of my front foot riding.
I wouldnt want to go wider than 18 7/8 or thicker than 2 3/8 either because of the fuller nose. I want to be able to duck dive it and also to dig in the rail.

I am thinking about either a thumb tail or a slightly pointer round pinnish kind of tail. If i decide to go with the second one i would consider increasing into a 6´5 in order to make up for it.
I would like medium rails beacause i want to be able to dig them in easily.
Fuller rails are more what my skill level needs yet i want to be able to dig the rails.

keep in mind this board will be used only for oh waves specially on hollow or steep ones, we rarely have OH and a half faces but we do have now and then.
yet this aint hawwai so i aint talking about waves like the ones on magazines so the ultra rockered step up or guns arent needed around here.

I want to have a nice easy to paddle board, in order to get outside. Im 30 and besides being kind of new at this there are a lot of kids that i need to out paddle. I am willing to sacriface paddling a bit to be able to duckdive it and to dig the rails on the wave. I want a board that provides stability by digging into the wave rather than by its volume.



Im 5´10 and weight 16o Pounds. My riding on big waves is more into straighter lines, riding high in waves faces. I am not thinking about trying or learning radical switchbacks, tail slides or whatever. Just riding fast down the line and i would like to maybe one day, a million years from now, do a floater or bust some airs, like i did on my bodyboard days, at the last part of the wave when its about to close down on you.

While thinking on this board this question came to my mind: Would a four fin thumb tail be a good idea?. I thought about it because i guessed it might be good for the extra drive to get past through those closeout like sections. Also i tought that maybe having two fins stuck in the wave´s face might provide more stability?. Again im not thinking about tail slides or those things just about riding the hell out of breaking sections as fast as possible, riding high on the waves face, and gathering enough speed to try something fun at the end of the wave.

I tought on a medium deep single concave bottom to provide turnability, speed and lift.
Another stupid question BTW:
If the four fin is a no no. Would a slight v down at the fins be a good idea?
I think it might provide more stability while on the face of the wave because there would be 2 points of contact and less side rockering or tail slide. I am just guessing so please correct me if im wrong but dont flame me.

Dont be harsh if im not making much sense. I am not making the board yet. I am asking questions beforehand in order to not make a stupid naive decition. And to understand how a board works.

Thanks guys.
Pornstar
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