How to fix this crack + dent on bottom?

[ConcreteVitamin]

I have this small crack and pressure dent on the bottom. Finger nails do catch. What's worrisome is
(1) some "white" stuff can be seen along the crack - that's salt water?
(2) There are a couple of darker spots near the area, I am not sure if those are simply pigment applications or water has leaked into it.

Pictures below:

[oldmansurfer]

the white stuff is fiberglass exposed by the crack. Not sure what the darker spots are.

[ConcreteVitamin]

For this repair, the nails do catch but it's not a "hard" catch. Should I simply brush on some resin + sand, or would you recommend the procedure in this thread (viewtopic.php?f=39&t=37690)?

- Sand the ding thoroughly [until exposing the white stuff?]; no loose bits of glass to cut away in my case
- Add two sheets of fiberglass and resin [this covers both the crack, and the pressure dent next to it]
- Sand again, until smooth
- Apply a hotcoat. Wet sand.

[oldmansurfer]

There are many variables in what to do. If you aren't going to make it worse sand it down to the glass then reevaluate if the glass is loose or not as in does it pull away from the foam? If it's not loose then you could just resin over or use Solarez. If it's not near a rail I would just do one layer of glass on the bottom but that is what I would do. I'm pretty sure I am not going to make it worse fixing it but not sure about you. Is this polyester resin board? Polyester resin boards use hot coats but if it's epoxy then never try to do a hot coat. The idea of a hot coat in fixing/making polyester resin boards is the laminating coat is a cold mix so it doesn't harden completely, then the hot coat sets off the resin and also makes it so you can sand it. If you try to sand a freshly glassed polyester resin board it will gum up your sandpaper and you won't be able to make it smooth. Anyway the result is that the board is stronger because the glass coat will flex a bit because the resin isn't entirely hard so it will dent but not shatter as much as if the laminating resin was a hot coat. In epoxy resin boards that won't work as far as I know. If you mess with the amount of resin and hardener the result will be a weaker board (as far as I know). However if you are just starting then the Solarez fix is quick and easy and it works. I did a crack on my board maybe 6 or more months ago with solarez. I had to redo it but end result was nice and still holding.

[waikikikichan]

Question: Is the fiberglass layer / cloth intact ?

From the looks of it and what I see it is. So why compromise it's strength ? This repair just needs to remove the shatters and seal up the area. Like OMS said, do make it worse than it already is.

[ConcreteVitamin]

Fiberglass is intact, nothing is loose at the moment.

OK, thanks OMS and WKK. I will try sanding + brushing on some resin.

Want to ask you guys about another ding/shatter, this time on the rail:

This one doesn't catch. Do I give it the same sand+resin treatment? I only have a rack where I can securely place a board horizontally, but not in a rail upside down manner. Would this placement cause issues for a rail repair (with taping)?

[oldmansurfer]

You only need a light coat of resin so doing it on it's side should be okay. If you feel it isn't thick enough after it dries do another coat (mix another batch)