Surfing Waves

Hi guys,

I've been surfing on an 8' O'shea board since feb this year and have got to a level that I can ride down the face of a wave and put in a turn at the bottom going left or right. I have recently bought a 9'3" Tombstone longboard and I am struggling like hell. (I'm 6'2" and about 13 stone). It paddles out like a rocket, but when it comes to catching the wave it seems really slow, when I do catch a wave I pearl the front something rotten. So I have moved further back (so toes are in the water at the back of the board). When I do pop up it seems to just die and it feels really unstable (due to the fact it only has 1 fin and other board has 3) and I usually fall off.

Does anybody have any tips or suggestions as I went out for the first time in about 4 weeks due to extreme lack of surf and had the sh1ttest time I've ever had, while all the other longboarders where getting long rides

Ok...so what size are other longboarders using? If it is bigger than yours, you should sit slighty deeper in for the take off. If it is shorter then sit further out.

It sounds like a simple "taking off too deep for a big board" syndrome. I did this a lot with my 9'0. This means that when the wave pushes you its usually very steep and you nosedive, or if you don't it's difficult to stand and ride it out.

Basic Answer: Sit further out, practice practice practice...Nobody will be ripping in a few months. Don't expect to be either.

Have fun

Just my opinion from what I've learned in the past 6 months since getting my first longboard.

It will take a few sessions to get a new board sussed out.

Since it seems to paddle well for you ("It paddles out like a rocket"), I'd say it's your positioning and timing that's causing you problems. I would stop trying to fix the problem by moving further back on the board; you need to be balanced on it like any other board.
You are going to need to sit further out than you did on the 8' guaranteed.
You'll need to work out the timing on paddling. It helps to check over your shoulder; watching the wave come in as you paddle for it.
Angling the take off will help as well. Look and paddle in the direction you want to go (right/left) between checking the wave behind you.

The wave is tipping your board up and causing you to pearl because you're too close to the break zone when you're trying to catch/pop-up on the wave.
It might seem slow catching waves if you're laying too far back on the board. Also, when you're laying that far back you're probably popping up right on the tail; which will stall you out ("When I do pop up it seems to just die"). So, get back to the middle of the board.
When you pop up you should be between the tail and the sweet spot (trim). This allows you to be able to turn the board some and still have some speed. Then you can step back to make a bigger turn or step up to pick up speed.


So, just get out there and practice more (just sit out a bit further than you think).

So soo smart Driftalong!!

great post!

So how did it work out?? It does take a bit of time just like the smart bugga said..

try paddeling for a wave so the noes in just above the wavter and lean back/arch your back, this is what i do when im going for a late tackoff for a big wave that crept up on me