Surfing Waves

grub wrote:

Alwayzthekook wrote:…Due to an old back injury, I've got to give up thrusters. So I'm going to become a complete devotee to longboards (this has taken a lot of consideration, & I AM committed)... …my desires are to go for a single-fin, relatively heavy board. I want to glide & do long drawn-out cutties, & nose-riding. However, everyone I talk to here (including McTavish, Sput of Byron Longboards) are all telling me to go lightweight, 3 fin set up... …What are your thoughts, Grub ol' chum? Could you reply through the forum, incase it's of help to anyone else?

As you are seriously planning to move from a short board to a long board I also feel that it would be more beneficial for you to go for a shorter 3 fin setup that allows you to utilise your short boarding skills… As you know, I am currently only using a 9’6” traditional style board and although versatile, from time to time I do miss the maneuverability of long board designed for performance.

A traditional style long board does change your perspectives on surfing… I have found that I surf calmer with a more relaxed style primarily I attribute this to the lack of maneuverability. Surfing a short board is by far a more aggressive style of surfing and by moving to a performance model it allows the user the versatility of switching between aggressive and passive surfing.

The sheer weight of a traditional long board is incredible… I have stained both my back and shoulders on numerous occasions just walking to and from the beach; if your back is a problem (as is mine) you won’t want to undertake many hikes with a traditional board. When I do venture to isolated locations that require a bit of a walk, I generally have to take Pain killers (containing Codeine Phosphate) and Anti-inflammatory to enable me to surf the following day.

I do like heavy boards, but this is a personal preference… My suggestion is that you talk to the guys again that you already have. Ask them how they feels about a 9’1” triple stringer with, 60/40 rails, three fin setup, nose concave, and volan deck patch/rails. I do find it strange that Bob Mctavish actually told you to go for a lighter board. I have read so many articles based on his information regarding “trim” and how it is rapidly becoming a lost art form. One such article you maybe interested in reading (from Bob) is within the Collector’s edition photo annual 2005 on pp64 of the Australian Long Boarding magazine entitled: trim: bob mctavish meditates on the (almost) lost art.

Also I would consult with Phil at Fluid Foils regarding the centre fin since the company is based there in Ballina… I have used a single stringer similar to the specifications above with a Fat Boy Fin (& side fins; ie. 3 fin setup) and thought that they worked well together. My old 9’1” wasn’t really designed for nose riding, but was great in larger surf; also should note that it had a pin tail.


------ Fat Boy Fin ------

As always your best bet is to listen to the shapers. At a later stage you may consider buying a more traditional board but I feel you would enjoy a performance model (not necessarily light; although it maybe better as my weight is normally in excess of 90kg) more as you step away from the short board.