Surfing Waves

Hello guys,

I've been longboarding for some 25 years, and I've broken a few (half a dozen, maybe?). Last one was my 9.3" tuflite in the pink 2 days ago. It's getting fixed, and I will keep riding it. It's my favourite board.

The swell was small, but a big set came out of nowhere, and I dived under the wave, I let go of my board. When I pulled it back, it was broken. It was still in one piece, but had a crack on the top from rail to rail...

I've broken a few boards with this escape "technique". Obviously it does not work.

What should I do, the next time a big set is closing out in front of me? What do you guys do?
Thanks

zalle wrote:I dived under the wave, I let go of my board.

Can you go into more detail ?

When you let go, was the tail or nose pointed to the beach ?

How long is your leash compared to how long is the board ?

Get a Torq, it's unbreakable. The only times it break is when it hits another Torq.

Sorry. I did not see this reply.

I guess the nose was pointing towards the beach.

My leash is 9', board is 9'3"

waikikikichan wrote:

zalle wrote:I dived under the wave, I let go of my board.

Can you go into more detail ?

When you let go, was the tail or nose pointed to the beach ?

How long is your leash compared to how long is the board ?

zalle wrote:and I dived under the wave, I let go of my board. When I pulled it back, it was broken.

So you were paddling out and saw the big set coming at you. Was it swelling, about to break or just a giant white water wall ?

When you "let go" of the board, I assume the nose was still pointed to the horizon.

zalle wrote:I guess the nose was pointing towards the beach.

Did you just release your grip of the board and dive under or did you purposely shove/direct the nose of the board to the direction of the beach ?

So, I was paddling out. Big set comes in, I let go of the board and dive under the wave, which is closing out.

I believe I just shove it to the side, but I think I instinctively push it away from the point where the lip will hit.

I have a safety question that could apply to many surfers!
Do you look around you before you ditch your board to dive under?
It is one the major etiquette rules.
Longboards are quite difficult to duckdive unless you are a heavyweight but most people can turtle or eskimo roll.
Using rips and other head on avoidance of breaking waves is a skill obtained by learning to read the beach, but closeups catch us all sometimes!!

Answer to your question is: Of course!!!!

If there are surfers behind me I will just hold on to the board and pray...

That‘s what I was hoping it would be!

When starting a session I always wait for a gap between the sets and sprint out. If paddling toward an oncoming wave I make a judgement about where it will break. If it's close I haul ass over the top. If it's farther away I'll stay in place, wait for it to break and turtle roll under the white water.

If I guess wrong or can't paddle fast enough, I get worked.

Hey there,

Wow, 25 years of longboarding experience is impressive! It's always tough when a favorite board takes a hit, but kudos to you for getting it fixed and not giving up on it.

In terms of handling big sets, it sounds like the "letting go of the board" approach might need a rethink. While it can work in some situations, it seems like it's causing issues for you. Instead, consider practicing turtle rolls or duck dives to navigate through the waves more effectively. This way, you can keep control of your board and hopefully avoid those unexpected cracks.

As for protecting your beloved board, investing in a reliable boardbag is a great idea. Your boardbag should offer some extra cushioning and support, reducing the risk of damage during transit or unexpected incidents. It's always good to have that extra layer of protection, especially for a favorite board with sentimental value.

Happy riding and may your next session be free of unexpected cracks!

Well, I started surfing late (I was 22), with 7.6/8ft boards, and after a couple years I went up to 9ft, and now I'm 50, so yeah...

I try the turtle role, but sometimes I can't hold it, I'm not good at it, I guess. And if the wave is braking right on top of me and my board, I have to push it away and dive.

By the way, the broken board was fixed, and it's perfect. Still very light.

emily0 wrote:Hey there,

Wow, 25 years of longboarding experience is impressive! It's always tough when a favorite board takes a hit, but kudos to you for getting it fixed and not giving up on it.

In terms of handling big sets, it sounds like the "letting go of the board" approach might need a rethink. While it can work in some situations, it seems like it's causing issues for you. Instead, consider practicing turtle rolls or duck dives to navigate through the waves more effectively. This way, you can keep control of your board and hopefully avoid those unexpected cracks.

As for protecting your beloved board, investing in a reliable boardbag is a great idea. Your boardbag should offer some extra cushioning and support, reducing the risk of damage during transit or unexpected incidents. It's always good to have that extra layer of protection, especially for a favorite board with sentimental value.

Happy riding and may your next session be free of unexpected cracks!