Surfing Waves

Posted: **Fri Jun 24, 2022 7:10 am**

I’m planning to get a hardtop longboard. I’ve been surfing for a while and I’m going to try surfing a longboard. What size longboard should I get? Does the rocker matter?

I will use this to surf Doheny, blackies, and san onefre.

Posted: **Fri Jun 24, 2022 11:13 am**

ultrakook wrote:What size longboard should I get?

If you will be doing sanctioned longboard contests, then you will need a board at least 9'0". But if not, you can get something shorter.

ultrakook wrote: Does the rocker matter?

Well........ technically doesn't everything matter ? And doesn't one thing have an effect on another thing ?
( but I guess if you're thinking about getting into longboarding to learn to noseride, then maybe you might be interested in "reverse rocker" )

Question: Does the rocker matter on the short board you own ?

Posted: **Fri Jun 24, 2022 11:26 am**

My longboards have more rocker than I’ve seen in other longboards. I’ve searched them out because they work in the waves I ride better than flatter rockered boards I’ve had. Marginally more taxing to paddle but significantly better on the wave. I live in Bali and prefer to longboard in larger waves, 1-2x OH so that factors in. Point I’m trying to make is to follow Jaffas advice and don’t get a heavily rockered board as your first, especially if you’re not riding big fast and hollow.

I have a 10’ nose rider that has a fair amount of rocker as compared to other logs I’ve seen and use that in smaller fatter stuff but since breaks here are overcrowded when it’s small and fat I don’t take it out much.

Posted: **Fri Jun 24, 2022 10:01 pm**

waikikikichan wrote:
ultrakook wrote:What size longboard should I get?

If you will be doing sanctioned longboard contests, then you will need a board at least 9'0". But if not, you can get something shorter.

ultrakook wrote: Does the rocker matter?

Not really as long as can surf it and drop in. I won’t get a board with a rocker that is too ridiculous.
Well........ technically doesn't everything matter ? And doesn't one thing have an effect on another thing ?
( but I guess if you're thinking about getting into longboarding to learn to noseride, then maybe you might be interested in "reverse rocker" )

Question: Does the rocker matter on the short board you own ?

Posted: **Fri Jun 24, 2022 10:03 pm**

Is a 9 foot the average size?

Posted: **Sat Jun 25, 2022 12:31 am**

ultrakook wrote:Is a 9 foot the average size?

9'0" is the MINIMUM size to be used in most sanctioned longboard contest, but non-contest longboard "soul surfers" use whatever size they like. Some contests use a "3 feet over your head rule", which helps out the tiny groms.
Bonga Perkins who is much bigger and heavier than you used a 9'1".
Joel Tudor's Donald Takayama shaped model was 9'3".
Some people use 9'4"s. Some bigger surfers like 9'6" to 10'0".

What size longboard were you interested in buying ?

Posted: **Sat Jun 25, 2022 2:17 am**

I was gonna get an 8 foot but I think 9 foot is better now. So I’m going to get a nine foot now.

Posted: **Sat Jun 25, 2022 7:34 am**

A bit off topic but where should I position myself on the longboard? Do I keep my feet as far back as possible?

Posted: **Sat Jun 25, 2022 12:27 pm**

About longboard surfing, you walk and move forward works the accelerator back works brakes, learn to stall learn to cross step, become smooth in your movements, unlimited your imagination, everything any wave can be done on a longboard :lol:

Posted: **Sat Jun 25, 2022 9:33 pm**

ultrakook wrote: Do I keep my feet as far back as possible?

If you do that, then how will you get to the nose to "Hang-10" ?

But sometimes you need to get your back foot way way back and take your front foot off the deck to do this. Fast forward to :31.

Posted: **Sun Jun 26, 2022 7:21 am**

Oh I see, can you provide me with some source or tell about the correct positioning?

Posted: **Sun Jun 26, 2022 10:43 am**

ultrakook wrote:Oh I see, can you provide me with some source or tell about the correct positioning?

I can't "teach" you correct positioning, that you need to learn from the wave. You need to learn the "motion of the ocean". You need to listen to what the wave is telling you where to be.

Wait a minute, you already shortboard and want to charge 10 foot waves on your 7'0" gun. You don't need to learn correct positioning.

Posted: **Sun Jun 26, 2022 1:26 pm**

If you look at the video Waikikichan posted the guy has foot positions all over the board all of which are correct for what he is doing !! :lol:

There are surfers who surf longboards and have one (correct) position their video show slow and their turns are awkward their movement across the wave lacks ability to change pace with the wave.
There is no secret formula or perfect board, just the need to develop your skills by surfing lots and seeing what good surfers do! :lol:

Posted: **Sun Jun 26, 2022 4:27 pm**

Alright, thank you guys for your help!

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