Surfing Waves

Last week I had a pretty close call. After being really sick for a whole month without any exercise. I went out when it was a few feet above overhead. I saw at least 3 regulars came up limping as they have injured themselves. It was big, but I did catch some awesome waves. However one of the bigger set came in and probably look like 8-9 feet. I was in the wrong spot and behind me was the boil/reef. Got held under by 3 waves. I couldn't resurface, although I wasn't really deep in the water. I'm close to the surface but something was pulling me under. I ran out of air but managed to resurface and I drank some sea water.


I have a 9'0 board and a 9'0 leash. I'm thinking since I'm not going to go all the way to the nose, I should possibly get a 7'0 leash so if I loose the board, it will at least be closer to me. I already took out an older lady last month when I did a failed turtle roll and the board flew out of my hands and smacked her.

BaNZ wrote:I have a 9'0 board and a 9'0 leash. I'm thinking since I'm not going to go all the way to the nose, I should possibly get a 7'0 leash so if I loose the board, it will at least be closer to me.

You may not be walking to the nose, but you may unintentionally go over the nose if you pearl or hit a back wash. That's a good way to get a board to the chest, credit card swipe between the legs or to lose some teeth.

If anything you can check to see if a 8 foot leash will fit your board. Most manufacturers measure the length of the actual cord, so you get a extra bit of length from the rail saver and leash rope. Both my OAM and DaKine 8 foot leashes fit my 9'0" longboards.
( Make sure to pre-stretch them out too. )

waikikikichan wrote:You may not be walking to the nose, but you may unintentionally go over the nose if you pearl or hit a back wash. That's a good way to get a board to the chest, credit card swipe between the legs or to lose some teeth.

It's rare but that definitely does happen from time to time. I'll give 8'0 a try. I suspect I might have one from my 7'6 board. Maybe it's an 8'0 leash. Thanks.

Again the answer is not to fix the arrow. Your adjustment should be to not letting go of your board and learn how to properly turtle roll. Learn to surf as if you were not wearing a leash.

If you do try to use the leash off your other board, attach the rail saver to your leash rope and pull the leash cuff all the way to the nose. It needs to land in front of it.

waikikikichan wrote:Again the answer is not to fix the arrow. Your adjustment should be to not letting go of your board and learn how to properly turtle roll. Learn to surf as if you were not wearing a leash.

Most of the times I lose the board is because I overestimated my ability. I think I can paddle out before the bigger sets lands on me. However it puts me in a terrible position because I'm paddling towards it and realized I cannot make it out and it's going to land on me. I grabbed onto the board it it basically flipped me over. That's how I lost the board last month and hit the lady.

Then last week, I did the same thing again. I couldn't make it and it was clearly way too big. I saw people around me ditched their boards and dive under. I did not want to let go of the board because my leash is getting old and I know it might snap it. The leash is around 6 years old now and it took a lot of beating. So I was in the impact zone again, I just flipped the board upside down and held onto it. Kinda like when you carry the board on top of your head. When I resurfaced, I got pummeled over and over again. I had no energy left, and couldn't even make it back to the car. Just didn't expect that not surfing much for 3-4 weeks degraded my health so much. In the past I would be able to hold on to the bard easily or paddle fast enough to make it out the bigger sets.

Short answer NO!, Cuff and leash tail to nose, , one day you get up to the nose.
Other thoughts, always check and renew your leash, age wearies them They will break at the most inopportune moment.
Please learn judgement in timing and develop turtle skill when your timing is not going to work.
You are quite aware and considerate, note you didn‘t harass a drop in bodyboarder butternder and went the other way!
Think the same way in developing safety skills like the turtle roll!
Do some get yourself fit exercises, as unfit means more risk of injury and less ability to apply your skills!

BaNZ wrote:Most of the times I lose the board is because I overestimated my ability.

Know your limits and respect them. I don't paddle out when the waves are bigger than 5 feet because the same things happen to me. When it's too big I ride a sheltered break, catch reforms or hop on a surfskate. I also recommend Old Man Surfer's gradual approach to pushing your limits.

https://surfing-waves.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=39251&p=235545&hilit=big+waves#p235545

I was forced to surf leashless for the first time recently. Was traveling, the shop didn't have leashes. It was a mellow sand bottom beach break, small day. I was humbled to discover how much I instinctively relied on a leash (bailing, closeouts, etc.). After a few swims, my awareness to hold onto the board grew.

Good news, personal surfing evolution