Surfing Waves

Hey everyone! Lately I’ve been struggling with taking off on steeper, more hollow, fast waves. I have this issue whether I’m on a 9’0” performance board or a 9’6” classic board, or even a mid range-board, so having the right board is likely not the problem. It's me!

I often find myself paddling for the wave and then getting hung up at the top looking over a crazy steep ledge and then chickening out. Or when I commit and go for it without hesitation, I get tossed over the falls. Yes, I know commitment is key, but even when I don't hesitate, I'm still getting my a$$ handed to me. My timing must be really off. Even when I angle in, the same thing happens. Mind you, when the waves a fat and fast, I have no problems at all. It's when they are a bit pitchy and hollow that I feel like a beginner all over again. Is there any advice you wise ones can offer? Is there a detailed post somewhere here where this issue has been addressed? All suggestions are appreciated. Thank you!

You’re definitely not getting in early enough. Starting slightly further out in the lineup and matching the speed of the wave is critical. I find that when I surf steep waves, the early part of my session is better, and it gets harder and harder for me to keep the power/speed/position ratio working. It’s even harder when it’s crowded because you wind up paddling for more waves but not going on as many. Paddle fitness, energy, and the right board for you and the conditions are all key.

Tom

You need to take off later than you are used to ie after the wave face is steeper. If you try to take off when the face is less steep, that works on fatter waves (because they build up and then break over time) but not fast breaking waves (build up and break v quickly). This more or less means taking off closer to the beach - how you get there (start closer, paddle earlier, paddle harder) is up to you. Keep in mind that water is being sucked up the face of steeper waves more quickly (because the wave is breaking faster, so the same amount of water gets sucked up as for an equivalent fat wave, but in less time), so paddling harder may just be a nil sum result

So your mindset needs to change from ‘position myself to take off when the face has an angle of 30 degrees’ (or whatever) to ‘take off when it’s 60 degrees’.

and be ready to pop up really quickly.

As I often say, catching a wave involves gravity (sliding down the face). For steep waves the gravity starts working quickly (it’s steep); but you have to be on the slope of the wave and not at the top. So you paddle hard (sprint effort for the last few strokes) and continue to paddle and then throw your weight forward at the last second (chin to the board) to force the board down the hill

The other thing is to take off at a slight angle and immediately turn when you have popped up. You don’t want to head down a steep slope into the flats with a low rocker long board - it will just bury the nose

Google ‘taking off under the lip’

One thing I have noticed in steep waves is that very often if you try to take off on the inside shoulder it is often very difficult. Move a few feet deeper in the lineup and it will be easier. I face breaks that are difficult to catch from time to time. If they are bigger I often try the inside shoulder and if I can't take off there I immediately go deeper into the wave and try again. These days in waves that aren't so big I try from the peak next and if that doesn't work then the outside shoulder. On smaller waves I go for the peak to start with. The extra push of the lip tossing over helps get me into the waves. The other thing I do in waves that are difficult to catch is to paddle before the wave gets to me then once the wave starts to push the tail of the board up (this is at the very bottom of the wave) I paddle much harder. I think getting the board moving before the wave face starts to suck water up helps to overcome the stalling while paddling if you don't do that. So if you don't do that when you paddle the wave pulls the board up and over it before you can get forward motion so when you paddle it seems like you aren't moving and the wave just rolls under you.

I find the trick to taking a steep drop especially with a low rocker board is to do what I call an ankle turn as soon as you popup. What I mean by this is to use your ankles to shove the inside rail into the wall before you take the drop this will allow the nose to push itself back out when it contacts the bottom of the wave (on most waves). It's difficult to explain exactly how this looks but shoving the rail into the wave results with the outside rail facing the beach and the inside rail carving into the wave.

It's kind of counter intuitive to take a steep drop. Your initial reaction is to pull back and go whoa but that is exactly the wrong thing and you need to lean forward and charge down the face as quickly as possible. You need a quick popup too so if you aren't just going up in one smooth motion then you need to practice that

Don't get discouraged, surfing hollow waves isn't easy on a shortboard, even harder on a longboard. I'm not experienced with longboards but from what I see from the pro's here that surf very tubular waves with 9'+ boards, you have to use the advantage of your board in your favor: Taking off earlier.

I'd position myself a little further out, paddle really hard so you can glide before the wave peaks and prepare to apply a lot of rail pressure, because that's where things will get harder. A shortboard responds faster, you can set rail and get on the wave line with less effort (that makes it more manageable to make late drops). With a longboard you'll need a little more time and force to make it lock on the line, so you buy that extra time getting on your feet earlier on. You might need to position your feet a little closer to the inside rail too to get enough pressure, instead of over the stringer.

I found a video of a longboard pipeline session:

Some waves are just NOT meant to be ridden ( or taking off on ).

Question: are you part of the local crew and getting the choice waves ? Or are you the new guy only being left the scraps to go on ?

scrubitkook wrote:I have this issue whether I’m on a 9’0” performance board or a 9’6” classic board, or even a mid range-board

With longer boards u can take off late&steep&fast but u must position yourself a good bit back on the board, to avoid nosediving.

Then it's about finding the critical positioning/timing, just before the wave breaks, and paddle hard and deep when the wave lifts your tail. Only a few strokes and ur in, then popup with a real pop!

The later and steeper the wave, the less paddle thrust you'll need, but the quicker you must get to your feet, and immediately set the inside rail, for a high line.

It's a bit tricky in the beginning, but when u start doing it right a couple of times you'll see it's not that hard.

waikikikichan wrote:Some waves are just NOT meant to be ridden ( or taking off on ).

Question: are you part of the local crew and getting the choice waves ? Or are you the new guy only being left the scraps to go on ?

I’m a local and have friends in the lineup who are happy to share waves. Of course, since I seem to bomb 80% of the steep waves I’m here posting about, I hardly even bother paddling for them anymore because who wants to screw up a good wave with incompetence when the guys all around you could easily make it work beautifully? I’m often encouraged to go for it but truth be told, I’ve lost my confidence on them (the hollow steep ones) and don’t want to bomb, so lately I just wait for waves that I know I can make. Not helping my cause, I know.

Wow! Thank you so much, everyone, for the replies! I knew this was a great group of folks with an abundance of knowledge, but I wasn’t expecting the depth of detail and information! You guys are awesome! You’ve really given me some good stuff to think about and info to put into practice. Just going through these responses a few times trying to visualize what you’re all recommending. These types of waves have always been my weakness and I’d really like to become proficient going into winter here in SoCal when things do get a bit faster/hollow/steeper at my local break. Again, thank you all so much!

1) is the problem more on frontside or backside ?

2) are you even getting to your feet before getting pitched ?

3) who else has a board similar to yours and built similar to your body type that is “making” the drop consistently ?

1) its waaay easier uncrowded
2) if you have side fins, drop the center.
You cant turn fast enough and it produces drag.

Vert fins do wonders for your ability to shift your board from paddling to parrallel.