Surfing Waves

Longboarders are so lazy. Half way into the ride they got to take a break as sit on their butt.
( and for once it's not "Toots" doing it, it's Johnny the Rippah ). Legs over nose ride.


Start from the 13:12 mark.

That video makes me miss living in HI and those fun south swells in town... now I wear cold wet 4/3 rubber to catch onshore slop wondering why I left HI while paddling through walls of whitewater.

You telling me. I'm now living in Tokyo and haven't surfed in a month ( hence, me being on this great forum all the time ). In Hawaii, I surfed every day.

More examples starting at :20.

waikikikichan wrote:You telling me. I'm now living in Tokyo and haven't surfed in a month ( hence, me being on this great forum all the time ). In Hawaii, I surfed every day.

Somehow this reminded me of my grandparents. They speak Japanese and they grew up in Taiwan. Everything they have is made from Japan. They watch Japanese TV shows, love Japan and hate China. After returning from their first Hawaii trip. They decided they want to live there but they also want family around. They told my parents that they want to take me to Hawaii but my parents refused as I spent the past year with them and I was spoilt and grades are falling behind.

I think my life would've been a lot different if I went with them to Hawaii.

I'm stuck in a 9-5 job with a shitty crowded break.

I was surprised too how the Taiwanese treat the Japanese so nicely when they visit Taiwan. The surf culture is so amazing and new. Like things were in the 70's.

Hawaii is truely a surfer's paradise, but way too expensive to live day to day.

Waikiki surf report for Sunday is 10 feet, “good to epic”... would be cool to see Waikiki firing, never seen it that big there before.

When it gets 6 feet plus, Queens gets an awesome Left. You can go so far you meet up with the guys coming Right from Canoes. At First Break way out side Canoes, you are lined up with guys at Populars.
The Hotel rental stands stop renting surfboards when it gets big. But the stands in front the Duke statue will rent to anyone.