by Tudeo » Sun Dec 01, 2019 8:33 am
This is fun! After I'd read this post next time out the waves were small and I was on my 9'4 single fin, and I just started doing this.
1st time was a waist high left, my backhand, there was a crumbly section forming and I had enough speed to hop the nose up against it so it projected me down the line with extra speed.
Later I had a few stomach high rights, were I could do the same. It was actually very functional to get some extra speed to make the section.
The quick and high 'bottom' to avoid pearling, it was a quick and steep little reefwave, the moving up and down to maintain trim and speed, the tapping of the lip. It was such a fun session.
My timing for the sesh was just good, the tide was rising to high, almost too high already, and a se sideshore was making some chop, and there were long waits between sets. But the good thing was, the surf school crowds were just finished, I was the only longboarder surfing the outside.
You definitely don't need 'serious' waves to have fun!
Death is coming to Brooklyn. And it's got buck teeth and a cotton tail!