Surfing Waves

Ok so the art of longboarding video briefly touched on the concept of standing up past the whitewater during the paddle out and this intrigued me because one would assume the board would just be knocked back into the rider. Anyway I proceed to try this and what do you know my board gets knocked back into me and I break my nose blood everywhere. SO yes there are other ways to paddle out but how would one do this particular technique?

As a 66 year old, I don’t popup to get through waves because I need the strength to do them when riding. If I ever felt that frisky, I‘d never do it in surf over 3 feet for fear of what happened to you. Better options to get out are pushing through, turtle rolls and timing your entry between sets.

That said, to do the maneuver, turn your board straight into the wave, sprint paddle for momentum and popup with a “weight forward stance.” The idea is to push the nose just below the oncoming water with enough power to get through. Having your feet on the deck creates less drag on the foam than would your whole body lying flat.

Practice this in small conditions until you are comfortable.

So if the nose came up it is because you had the nose up and it should have been going under the incoming whitewater instead of over it. This technique doesn't result in a clean cruse through the wave but rather it allows the board to penetrate the wave and then you have to dive over it and take a bit of gas but not as much as just trying to brute force it through the wave

Questions:
1) How LONG is the board you stood up on to (try) get through the wave ?
2) How BIG was the wave itself ?
3) WHERE on the board ( front, middle, tail ) were your feet ?

I'm betting the wave was too big, the board too small and your feet were too far back.

waikikikichan wrote:Questions:
1) How LONG is the board you stood up on to (try) get through the wave ?
2) How BIG was the wave itself ?
3) WHERE on the board ( front, middle, tail ) were your feet ?

I'm betting the wave was too big, the board too small and your feet were too far back.

Yeah you're probably right on all three accounts but I swear I saw somewhere the guy had his feet on the tail and kicked the board up past the whitewater

A budding surfer, Bjorn
About fulcrums we just have to warn
When he stands on board's tail
He is certain to fail
And make his nose broke and forlorn

Ouch on your behalf

Bjorn wrote:

waikikikichan wrote:Questions:
1) How LONG is the board you stood up on to (try) get through the wave ?
2) How BIG was the wave itself ?
3) WHERE on the board ( front, middle, tail ) were your feet ?

I'm betting the wave was too big, the board too small and your feet were too far back.

Yeah you're probably right on all three accounts but I swear I saw somewhere the guy had his feet on the tail and kicked the board up past the whitewater

You still didn't answer the questions, so i guess we'll keep guessing. If you noticed in the Wingnuts art of longboarding video, depending on the wave height and situation, the surfer can use different techniques to get out past whitewater. The "stand up" is usually done a lot by knee paddlers, although a prone paddler can do it. Once the nose goes over or pokes thru the whitewater, the surfer needs to weight forward ( push on the front leg, lean the torso, etc. ). That's also to break the tail out of the foam that engulfs it. Just like you CAN NOT ONLY just lean your body back and pull back on the handle bar jumping a ramp or curb on a bike.

Wave wise, if it just a little to big to "Push Up" (straight arms, wave goes between body and deck ) and just a little to small to "Turtle" ( eskimo roll ) then you can use the Stand Up. Mostly i think people utilize the Stand Up to keep their upper body and hair dry. **** I don't like the "Sit Up and Shoot", that one I feel you more likely to get hit in the face***


Wingnut explains from 14:05. The Stand Up is explained at 15:38. Notice he is standing in the center of the board, NOT the tail.

waikikikichan wrote:You still didn't answer the questions, so i guess we'll keep guessing.

Probably a lurking SUP rider.