Surfing Waves

New to me anyway.....I wanted a longboard that had less rocker than what I have (Jimmy Lewis), a wider nose but still designed for bigger, steeper waves with good shape....rounded pintail seems to help to that end.
Secondhand board came up that seemed to fit the bill. Have taken this out twice, once in shoulder high onshore slop and the next time it was 1.5OH, fast and hollow.....only ridden as a single so far and not yet tried a 2+1, but so far am liking the new stick. Its 9' x 22" x 2 3/4" PU. Wet season weapon....good times to come!

.....and it's my favorite color!

I don't like wide nose. But no matter what, I still envy your life.

That's a really cool board. I was dying to buy a board similar to that (Channel Islands H4000), but I had cash flow problems at the time. I think the color of your board is beautiful. It looks like it will be fast. Have fun.

Wow your other longboard must have a lot of rocker.

the wax goes all the way up - must be a noserider!

I'm very curious how this board compares to the Jimmy Lewis, paddling, wave catching, the ride?
Maybe you can make a photo that shows the difference in rocker?
Very interesting!

dtc wrote:the wax goes all the way up - must be a noserider!

Hung 5 so far.....

Will do. Here are shots of the other board. In Lovina ATM, will snap some more photos when Im back down south.

Comparative pics....

It's Big Board O'Mania with Big H!
This is pretty cool! Thanks for sharing, Big H, and congrats on obtaining the nearly Unobtainium!

Had to look that up.....cheers on the new vocab word!

Unobtainium
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopaedia
In fiction, engineering, and thought experiments, unobtainium is any fictional, extremely rare, costly, or impossible material, or (less commonly) device needed to fulfill a given design for a given application. The properties of any particular unobtainium depend on the intended use. For example, a pulley made of unobtainium might be massless and frictionless; however, if used in a nuclear rocket, unobtainium would be light, strong at high temperatures, and resistant to radiation damage. The concept of unobtainium is often applied flippantly or humorously. For instance, unobtainium is described as being stronger than helium, and lighter than air.

Didn't you watch Avatar?

dtc wrote:Didn't you watch Avatar?

Was it in that? I slept through most of the middle bits....

Thanks for the comparison pics Big H! The difference in rocker is very clear in the pics. Let us know how it goes! Is it a game changer in the paddling and wave catching?

So far the paddling is markedly different as is the difference in catching steeper waves (purple board easier for steeper, green better paddler). Did not use it today......Will keep you updated!

Yeah I guess that's the tradeoff, great to paddle from A to B but more difficult to catch the steep waves cos of risk for pearling, was that the case? Maybe you must angle it more when paddling for the wave? You'll lose some of the wave catching power then but you still got the great transport ability.

The green board would've been perfect for Oldmans yesterday late afternoon, the waves were big, but fat and so hard to get into. The rides were a bit dull, but long. I really must learn to abort a wave when the power is not there, now I just cutback and keep squirming out all the power there is, and then have to paddle all the way back..

So here is the end of the story....

I took it out in different conditions 5 times...the green board looked a good paddler, but honestly, it felt like I was dragging an anchor around, even after changing the fin setups..........I wound up losing confidence and had increasingly worse sessions....the board just didn't work for me, no matter what I tried. Went out on the purple Jimmy Lewis today and had a decent session, tentative at first, then growing in confidence had some good runs in 1.5OH conditions.....that confirmed it; the greenie was kryptonite for me.....just now I just sold it on. So now I am happier with the purple than I was; she was so much better than greenie in every way when I was out today and the days preceedcing........grass is always greener right!!?!?!?!?!

Damn dude, you sure know how to wax your board.

Mine looks like a 3 yr old kid with a crayon.