Surfing Waves

With all that talk about beginners wanting to ride smaller boards got me thinking. How would you decide how big you want your go to longboard to be?

Last year I was going to pick out a mini longboard around 8'6 that's not outrageously wide or thick for my size at 5'2, 105lbs. But since that wasn't a very commonly available size on craigslist around where I live I've settled on a 9' x 22 3/4"(i just found out this dim. which is more than I originally thought) x 2 7/8" which has been more than awesome. Yet compared to my kids' 8' or 8'6 mini longboards mine is less nimble in water i.e.. more work to spin around in the lineup or turn while riding, and the trip to the nose or the tail takes more steps. I don't have much issue getting back out or handing out of the water with a 9 footer so it's not about the convenience.

I definitely like the more flow-y riding style of single fin longboards so I want to keep a dependable all around longboard all the time even though down the road I want to ride a shorter egg or magic carpet like ultra mini longboard to add variety when the condition allows. I'm just not sure if my current board is the right size for me. I suppose I'd be having a sit down with a shaper for my next board but before that I thought it would be good to hear from the experts here I typically surf a point break that's around thigh to shoulder high but it can have really small days as well as rare OH days.

I dont think a long board can be 'too long' (well, up to 9ft6 or so) - you have the ability to use leverage to get on the tail and turn etc - particularly if its a nice point break- and 6 inches here or there doesnt change that. However, there will be a size that maximises the benefits of volume, so over that size you dont really get much advantage and potentially getting into disadvantage.

I have a 9'1 and a 7'4 (mini mal and I definitely notice the relative lack of glide in the 7'4 - but its much easier to turn. However, I dont notice any difference in paddle power or wave catching.

So at the end of the day I feel

- the decision on length in is based on what is important to you in your surfing eg turns, glide
- the decision on volume is more focused on wave catching and paddling (but its always better to be overvolumed than
undervolumed unless you absolutely have to duck dive)
- width obviously plays its part - stability etc
- the lighter you are the less volume you need to maximise the benefits of volume
- going shorter to get less volume is just one way to do it. Width and thickness are almost more important
- there is no 'right' or 'wrong' answer as such without knowing what is important to you in terms of your skill level, preferred surfing style or feel and so forth

If I didn't have to ride a 9'0" in competition, I wouldn't need to own one. I'm the same height as you at 5'2", and for me 8'8" is my favorite length. It matches my GAIT ( the pattern how a person walks ). With the 9'0" i have to take an extra half step to reach the nose.

From a shop/glassing point of view, the price to glass a 8'6" is around the same for a 9'0". And a longboard considered above 9'0". So 8'6" are harder to come by.

And again, length is just one factor. Tail design, rocker, v-bottom, tapered vs. full rail, hip and bumps and fin setups can totally change how a board rides. I rode 9'0"s that turns on a dime, yet ridden 8'0"s that are soo stiff. You have to consider the whole package.

Here a 9'0" single fin with a deep swallow tail. It was sitting outside the house for a few years, my wife said "What's that ?, I want to try it !". She loves that board, easy to turn yet easily nose rides.



Question- have you tried a flex fin or Greenough 4-A fin ?

Hey wkk, this is a very kook question as I'm not a nose rider - how hard is it to change your gait ie if you took cross steps that were each 2inches longer (assuming 3 to the nose) then you wouldn't have that extra 1/2 step. I assume the fact that you don't do that means it's actually not doable - stuffs up the balance or flow or something?

dtc wrote: how hard is it to change your gait ie if you took cross steps that were each 2inches longer (assuming 3 to the nose) then you wouldn't have that extra 1/2 step.

Changing your gait means it's not YOU anymore. Work with what you got. Instead of added two inches to each of the steps, how about taking FOUR steps ? I know I still have 6 more inches to go, so I bring my back foot up to the front foot's heel and then more the front foot. It's kinda like hitting a croquet ball, action-reaction. So it's not shuffling.

The secret is Manipulation. You not only walk on the board, but move the board under you at the same time.

dtc wrote:I dont think a long board can be 'too long' (well, up to 9ft6 or so) - you have the ability to use leverage to get on the tail and turn etc - particularly if its a nice point break- and 6 inches here or there doesnt change that. However, there will be a size that maximises the benefits of volume, so over that size you dont really get much advantage and potentially getting into disadvantage.

I have a 9'1 and a 7'4 (mini mal and I definitely notice the relative lack of glide in the 7'4 - but its much easier to turn. However, I dont notice any difference in paddle power or wave catching.

So at the end of the day I feel

- the decision on length in is based on what is important to you in your surfing eg turns, glide
- the decision on volume is more focused on wave catching and paddling (but its always better to be overvolumed than
undervolumed unless you absolutely have to duck dive)
- width obviously plays its part - stability etc
- the lighter you are the less volume you need to maximise the benefits of volume
- going shorter to get less volume is just one way to do it. Width and thickness are almost more important
- there is no 'right' or 'wrong' answer as such without knowing what is important to you in terms of your skill level, preferred surfing style or feel and so forth

Good points to consider. I guess what also got me thinking the whole thing is that me riding a 9' is almost equivalent to a 6' person riding a 10'+ board. In addition to that, the length is only one of many areas that contribute to the board's riding characteristics. I'm starting to see what my preferences are... some of which are contradictory, say I appreciate relatively heavy boards for stability even when it's choppy yet they need more torque from me to turn. At this point I'm working on more defined bottom turns then leading to top turns (and repeat if the waves are long enough.) I'm not sure I'd ever be able to do cutbacks with my current board but that's probably more about my skills than the board. I agree that once the board length decreases below 8' or so the glide isn't there anymore so I want my next longboard to be still longer than 8'. I prefer wide and thin board for stability. Narrow and thick to me is wobblier and lacking the "moving with the water" feel.

waikikikichan wrote:If I didn't have to ride a 9'0" in competition, I wouldn't need to own one. I'm the same height as you at 5'2", and for me 8'8" is my favorite length. It matches my GAIT ( the pattern how a person walks ). With the 9'0" i have to take an extra half step to reach the nose.

From a shop/glassing point of view, the price to glass a 8'6" is around the same for a 9'0". And a longboard considered above 9'0". So 8'6" are harder to come by.

And again, length is just one factor. Tail design, rocker, v-bottom, tapered vs. full rail, hip and bumps and fin setups can totally change how a board rides. I rode 9'0"s that turns on a dime, yet ridden 8'0"s that are soo stiff. You have to consider the whole package.

Here a 9'0" single fin with a deep swallow tail. It was sitting outside the house for a few years, my wife said "What's that ?, I want to try it !". She loves that board, easy to turn yet easily nose rides.

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Question- have you tried a flex fin or Greenough 4-A fin ?

Yeah, the board is a whole package of all the dem. and designs combined. That swallow tail board is pretty cool and unique looking. There's a good example of how each tail shape etc. affects the turning ability. As to the fins, currently I have a 9" Farbrow flex fin (all the way forward) as per the rec. of the local shop. I love the stability and the drive but it needs more concentrated effort to turn. But it may be that at my skill level any turn needs an effort... The board (single fin box only) came with a 8.5" true ames cutaway which is a little easier to turn but less stable. I had the option to go with 9" 4-a (that was my original plan) but decided not to because farrow would be better for nose riding. And I got too excited by the prospect of being able to nose ride in the future despite better judgement So 4-a would be a good balance between stability/hold and maneuverability. Right now I'm contemplating on ordering a new longboard to upgrade from my beater so unless I'm going for another 9 footer I was thinking of holding off of buying a fin unless I can use the same size fin on a short board around 8'6. I'm not looking into competing so I don't have a length requirement. Somewhere between 8 and 9 foot, not too wide, not too thick, not too much rocker would seem nice.

For those who have a carver, is the effort required to turn a longboard(surfboard of course) roughly just as much (or as little) as a carver with a mid length deck? I have a 33" greenroom with c7 truck which is less work to turn than my longboard, unless I haven't been pushing the longboard as much because riding a carver is a lot more familiar than surfing, relatively speaking.

saltydog wrote:Good points to consider. I guess what also got me thinking the whole thing is that me riding a 9' is almost equivalent to a 6' person riding a 10'+ board.

I was curious so I did the math;

proportionally, a 5'2" person (you) on a 9' board is the same ratio as a 6'1" person (me) on a 10'7" board.

That would be a big board for me to ride.


That being said, the size of waves are same for everyone, we all have the same size curl to fit into and the same amount of force and size of the wave on a given day to work with......that's why groms rock on anything and why I'd wager most pro surfers are relatively smaller sized people.


Interesting.

waikikikichan wrote:
The secret is Manipulation. You not only walk on the board, but move the board under you at the same time.

If you watch a really good cross stepper it often looks like they are in the same position on the wave and the board just flows back and forth under their feet as if the board is on ball bearings. Keep your eyes open and you will see it, it looks like magic

Big H wrote:I was curious so I did the math;

proportionally, a 5'2" person (you) on a 9' board is the same ratio as a 6'1" person (me) on a 10'7" board.

That would be a big board for me to ride.


That being said, the size of waves are same for everyone, we all have the same size curl to fit into and the same amount of force and size of the wave on a given day to work with......that's why groms rock on anything and why I'd wager most pro surfers are relatively smaller sized people.


Interesting.

You are right that we still have to think of matching the board to the waves.

jaffa1949 wrote:

waikikikichan wrote:
The secret is Manipulation. You not only walk on the board, but move the board under you at the same time.

If you watch a really good cross stepper it often looks like they are in the same position on the wave and the board just flows back and forth under their feet as if the board is on ball bearings. Keep your eyes open and you will see it, it looks like magic

Right now my occasional one way trip to the nose (and beyond ) is more of a mad dash. The longboard in scenes in films make it look so fluid and effortless... almost magical for sure I'll watch carefully for "moving the board not moving ON the board."

Thanks for all the input everyone

jaffa1949 wrote:If you watch a really good cross stepper it often looks like they are in the same position on the wave and the board just flows back and forth under their feet as if the board is on ball bearings. Keep your eyes open and you will see it, it looks like magic

Someone please post a video of this.

CosmicQ wrote:

jaffa1949 wrote:If you watch a really good cross stepper it often looks like they are in the same position on the wave and the board just flows back and forth under their feet as if the board is on ball bearings. Keep your eyes open and you will see it, it looks like magic

Someone please post a video of this.

I have elsewhere so have a look at this,
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=26894