Wipeout when it crests

[STEVENSURF12]

Well I've been using an 8ft long board and just made the transfer to green waves. I had a yearlong problem but solved that by popping up earlier but now when I successfully catch the wave and pop up, I am riding and when the wave is about to break I wipeout. I feel at if my tail is on the wave and nose is in the water and middle doesn't touch the water when I'm wiping out but I am not sure as I cannot see. Please some advice.

[dtc]

There are potentially multiple issues but one thing to do is, when you pop up, consciously tip forward (put weight on front foot) and head down that slope. Dont sit at the top of the wave waiting for the wave to push you (hint: it wont). Like a skateboard or a bike going down hill - lean down the slope and go for it. Tip forward down the hill - the natural tendency is to lean back against the slope to keep the board flat, but that is exactly the wrong thing.

Another possibility is that you are 'perling'. (or nose diving). Search around on the forum and there are quite a few threads on it because its a very common beginner problem - solution is (85% of the time) paddle harder! The other 15% is create a slight angle with the board before take off - dont head straight to the beach, head slightly at an angle.

[STEVENSURF12]

Thank you for the advice I will try it as soon as possible

[Z mann R2]

Also with longboard I have found you need to be turning pretty much as soon as you pop up. Lean over and get that big log to move that nose over ASAP so you don't nose dive

Also, what is "green water"?

[STEVENSURF12]

Thanks and the green wave is before the wave breaks.

[jaffa1949]

The green part of the wave is before it breaks and anywhere along the face where there is no white water!