Surfing Waves

Hey Roy . . . I admire that you (appear to have) have adapted . . . Back in the day you used to ride with your feet side by side, now you ride front foot and back foot . . . is there a specific reason or is it just moot ?

esonscar wrote:Hey Roy . . . I admire that you (appear to have) have adapted . . . Back in the day you used to ride with your feet side by side, now you ride front foot and back foot . . . is there a specific reason or is it just moot ?

I haven't changed my stance, well maybe a bit as nothing stays exactly the same. People used to say that I surfed with my feet side by side but I didn't actually... just like they say I don't turn even though I do...The difference is possibly that the camera is better in quality and more zoomed in on the feet. Also in tiny waves my stance sometimes has feet closer together but never side by side.

Hey Roy, have wondered for a while but forget when logged on, have been meaning to ask: are you board easier to catch waves with than fiberglass board? I remember watching one of your vids where you caught a wave that looked super slow, like the type I would miss. Just wondering...

themathteacher wrote:Hey Roy, have wondered for a while but forget when logged on, have been meaning to ask: are you board easier to catch waves with than fiberglass board? I remember watching one of your vids where you caught a wave that looked super slow, like the type I would miss. Just wondering...

Well that depends upon the boards being compared but generally yes, the bigger boards usually catch waves more easily than SUPs as well.

It's not a matter of materials though,it has more to do with shape, and the paddler.

Hell; I just wrote a huge reply, but hey, what ^Roy says is basically true (until I surf the outside reef of Pipe on my pocketbaord ®!).

Roy Stewart wrote:

esonscar wrote:Hey Roy . . . I admire that you (appear to have) have adapted . . . Back in the day you used to ride with your feet side by side, now you ride front foot and back foot . . . is there a specific reason or is it just moot ?

I haven't changed my stance, well maybe a bit as nothing stays exactly the same. People used to say that I surfed with my feet side by side but I didn't actually... eet. Also in tiny waves my stance sometimes has feet closer together but never side by side.

Hey Roy . . . I have reviewed to understand . . . when your earlier vids were more featured than others a side by side 'olo' stance is evident, but now I see as you state . . . web vids eh!

Either way, your boards surf - and that is surfing (and I'm a 'rippin short boarder, with a bit of Biarritz gun in me - well allot actually, as well as a Crab Island classic and of course my own pocketbard ® ). I dunno what else to say to a real fellow surfer . . . errm, have a god one?

Thanks Esonscar, am beavering away on a new 10-5, will drop in with some pictures soon.