Surfing Waves

The title is true, I will tell you what happened but first I need to say that I am experienced in skateboard and snowboard to give you some idea that although I am surfing beginner, I still have a decent balance.
Recently I moved to French coast and bought a 9 foot long board Yoohoo! I thought.
Well, I figured I could self teach myself with internet here and there and learn at my own pace.

HERE IS WHAT HAPPENED
My endurance sucks! I am a web developer...
1st I reached the lineup and then got carried in a way that I couldn't reach the shore. I was not getting too far either so not too panicky but still, my shoulders were f***ing sore and I got really exhausted.
Then I managed to make it to a group of surfers waiting for some waves too big for me, about 2m. Being an exhausted beginner, I felt bad to be in this spot!
By then I couldn't even paddle to get myself surfing, just too tired.
Then one big wave was about to break on me, me facing the shore, this was bad as if I get it right, I should have been duck-diving it right? But no time to turn 180!!!
No need to say I panicked and already when the second one was ready to hit me the same way again I was even less ready. Leash trapped my legs under water. Got a feeling of almost drowning there trying to reach some air to gasp.
A third one (white wave) took me, lying on my board at fast speed, I was making some progress towards the beach when all of a sudden I got projected under water (I guess I was too forward on it) I almost died there. Miserably got my sorry ass on the beach and puked a couple times.

Please give me some constructive advice, I need to know why I messed up so bad except for my body was not fit enough which I now know.

If it makes you feel better, my username
<<<<<
came from a similar experience!

Happens to us all when we start. 90% of learning to surf is about learning how to paddle, how to get out to the line-up, predicting where you need to be and where you shouldn't be. Being able to skateboard is no use whatsoever, at least to start with.
There's no magic answer - you just have to keep on going out there. Maybe a bit smaller next time, and take some time before you go into the water to watch where the other surfers are paddling out, where it's breaking, and whether there are any bigger sets to catch you out in the mix.

...And lots of time paddling (or in the pool) too to get your fitness up.

Yep that's how it begins for most surfers, particularly those who come from other board sports! Sorry but it's true!
Surfing looks easy, it ain't , consider the difference skating or skiing you walk or get a lift to the top of the hill, you don't have to paddle out through a hill coming down hill.

The hill ( hopefully is not moving and changing position) you don't have to match the speed of the hill you point your nose down hill and away you go as you are already standing for take off.
You are not strapped to your board
The hill does not follow you down hill ( except avalanches) nor rear over your head ready to fall on you.
The uphill traffic is off the piste, there are no rips or currents, the mountain doesn't change in size and direction.
You have never had to use your arms before to get back uphill.

You have discovered the least of your learning curve is balance, next time might be more enjoyable, sit and watch the surf see what the lineup does before you enter.
At this stage 2 metres is a double black diamond run for you, get your surf fitness up and and practice on the easier "slopes".

Serious questions for you in this; Can you swim?................strongly? Or did you think that the leash would save you? If the leash had broken, how would you have got on in that surf?

Think about all this
Most of all do it in a way that you have fun and enjoy your progress, in your first experience you presented a danger to both yourself and others in the water.
That is not a shot at you just a plain truth

Thanks guys, that feels good to hear!
I got scared pretty bad but I am not ready to stop yet.
I think I will have some shoulder pain for a few days, at least I learned which muscles I need to train out of the water.

What is the correct thing I should have done when I said I was facing the beach and saw a breaking wave about to come on me?? should I hold on my board and get my back smashed by the wave and sort of ride it paddling style? Or should I try to sit at the back to pivot it 180 the quickest I can to dive in it? Any other way?

You could learn the turtle roll but in that case you'd have to do it backwards! When you are sitting in the line up you always sit facing out to sea so you can see the sneaker sets.
In this particular case I would just laid own on my board and hung on for dear life and been pushed towards the beach. I might have help my self by paddling the gripping but really need to see what happened to judge!
You can also learn to duck dive but that is problematical on a 9ft board, so it is the eskimo or turtle roll ( they are the same thing BTW) for you.

Learn about rips and how to get out to the break!

Swim every day all year 'round and also go surf . . . 'join' a swimming pool and swim to gain water fitness . . . front crawl . . . do it properly . . . get tutored if needs be . . . you will not regret it . . . For swimming pool advice give me a shout over at my http://www.poolaid.co.uk ® website, I'm an examined , certified and insured swimming pool technician via the Institute of Swimming Pool Engineers . . . and a water pro since 1993.

Think what the French Lifeguards have to do to be water fit . . . As a surfer that is the least you should do.

When there is no surf go paddle your 'board for a training session - Proper surfing really is a lifestyle commitment !

Think what the French Lifeguards have to do to be water fit . . . As a surfer that is the least you should do.

That's really tough reality to hear at this point, but it's all about safety first.
Jaffa thank you, I will practice turtle roll a lot in small waves and get fit so my shoulders can face anything.

You really are welcome, have fun out there. Lots to learn

The main issue was that you panicked. It happens to me too, getting caught in a rip and carried out is scary.

If there is a big set breaking behind you, pencil dive them. Get off your board, push up on it and when the wave is about to hit make your body straight, sink downwards and hold your leash. Bring up your leash leg so you can get a little deeper.

I have to say your story sounds familar. I think everyone does it at least once.

I get really tired paddling and that just seems to be something in my genetics and have developed ways to cope. However, I always look at the waves before I get in, (not just to see how big they are but there are loads of times where everyone is squashed into a small line up all shouting mine mine mine when 200ft down the beach is the perfect breaker with no one on it), I always use the rip to get out IF I know the area. Generally waves break, reform and break again, the second break is not as powerful as the first and you can catch this second break easier and with less hassle than in the main lineup.

If you are caught out, pencil diving works well as the above sasy, as does using your body as an anchor, (dive and hold to the leash as the wave takes the board). If the wave is not barreling, and you are facing the beach, lean back as it breaks over you and I have found the bottom of the board acts like an anchor. Once you have perfected this you can use this to rest until you can paddle again, (does NOT work for barrelling waves or really pushy 6ft+).

I have to agree with Jaffa though; surfing is not intuitive and takes commitment. I have been surfing for about 2 years now and feel comfortable in 2m waves but that is only because of experience and building up to it. I should not have gone in 2m+ waves when starting (well...and smack, spin, gurgle smack spin gurgle cough cough smack...well its one way to learn). Just chalk it up to experience and don't hassle too much about it, in a year you'll wonder what all the fuss was.

Greg

I've been surfing for a few years & I still get caught every now & then. Keeps me in tow & it's a reminder of who the boss out there is. Never lose respect for the ocean. Plus I find it good to have some fear. Just gotta control it. It's what keeps you safe.

Wow bummer! But yeah.. its all part of it I guess. when I first began (1 month ago, lol) I trained months before, push ups, jogging, lots of cardio and endurance training so when I am out there I would not tire out. Buddies of mine that are seasoned surfers told me when you first go out, JUST PADDLE. Go on the outside and paddle as far as you can from jetty to jetty if possible.. until you feel like your arms will fall off. Get up sit on your board, take a breather, then paddle back in. Take a breather... repeat. I did this at least the first 2-3 days. At first I didn't even realize the importance of keeping your chest arched up a bit... I noticed its easier to breath and its just good form. And don't drag your feet when paddling, keep your body centered and tight..and legs bent at the knees..I move up a bit on my board and it seems to help move the board faster and smoother when paddling out... I'm still learning.. But this is my 2 cents. Good luck and I hope your killing it now!

jaffa1949 wrote:Yep that's how it begins for most surfers, particularly those who come from other board sports! Sorry but it's true!
Surfing looks easy, it ain't , consider the difference skating or skiing you walk or get a lift to the top of the hill, you don't have to paddle out through a hill coming down hill.

The hill ( hopefully is not moving and changing position) you don't have to match the speed of the hill you point your nose down hill and away you go as you are already standing for take off.
You are not strapped to your board
The hill does not follow you down hill ( except avalanches) nor rear over your head ready to fall on you.
The uphill traffic is off the piste, there are no rips or currents, the mountain doesn't change in size and direction.
You have never had to use your arms before to get back uphill.

You have discovered the least of your learning curve is balance, next time might be more enjoyable, sit and watch the surf see what the lineup does before you enter.
At this stage 2 metres is a double black diamond run for you, get your surf fitness up and and practice on the easier "slopes".

Serious questions for you in this; Can you swim?................strongly? Or did you think that the leash would save you? If the leash had broken, how would you have got on in that surf?

Think about all this
Most of all do it in a way that you have fun and enjoy your progress, in your first experience you presented a danger to both yourself and others in the water.
That is not a shot at you just a plain truth

This should be pasted on every thread which begins with 'I'm a learner, good at skating/snowboading. What shortboard should I get?' haha

Lebowski wrote:

jaffa1949 wrote:Yep that's how it begins for most surfers, particularly those who come from other board sports! Sorry but it's true!
Surfing looks easy, it ain't , consider the difference skating or skiing you walk or get a lift to the top of the hill, you don't have to paddle out through a hill coming down hill.

The hill ( hopefully is not moving and changing position) you don't have to match the speed of the hill you point your nose down hill and away you go as you are already standing for take off.
You are not strapped to your board
The hill does not follow you down hill ( except avalanches) nor rear over your head ready to fall on you.
The uphill traffic is off the piste, there are no rips or currents, the mountain doesn't change in size and direction.
You have never had to use your arms before to get back uphill.

You have discovered the least of your learning curve is balance, next time might be more enjoyable, sit and watch the surf see what the lineup does before you enter.
At this stage 2 metres is a double black diamond run for you, get your surf fitness up and and practice on the easier "slopes".

Serious questions for you in this; Can you swim?................strongly? Or did you think that the leash would save you? If the leash had broken, how would you have got on in that surf?

Think about all this
Most of all do it in a way that you have fun and enjoy your progress, in your first experience you presented a danger to both yourself and others in the water.
That is not a shot at you just a plain truth

This should be pasted on every thread which begins with 'I'm a learner, good at skating/snowboading. What shortboard should I get?' haha

Agree!!!

Just be careful, I think your eyes are bigger than your swimming abilities!

Why not slowly increase your endurance in the white wash of near shore during low tide?

No one is going to really think you are cool becuase you went out to the main line up, just like no one cares if you are learning in the smaller waters.

Agree with that one. Every time I'm out I have to remember to try to improve on my weaknesses and stop trying to impress everyone else including the talent on the beach At my age....

Almost drowned? Someone gave you CPR? Someone carried you out unconscious? No? Then you didn't almost drown, and would not have.

You got held under, it gave you a scare, but if it happened again you would still be around to tell the tale. Relax, bad wipeouts and surf experiences happen, but for every bad experience I bet you have about 100 good ones.

Enjoy the stoke, keep surfing!

as they all said. no arms, no surf.
Start small, on the front break or no more than 1m, when you will be able to surf 2 hours in 1m surf without beeing super tired, and that you will have a sense of the sets, currents etc... on a specific spot then maybe this will be the time to try to hit 1m50... the swiming pool training is a must as is running and gymnastics. Also make some quick exercise on the beach right before / after surf... it helps your muscles.

nottyR6 wrote:Agree with that one. Every time I'm out I have to remember to try to improve on my weaknesses and stop trying to impress everyone else including the talent on the beach At my age....

Exactly! Sometimes i think the older guys (like me) are the worst haha
When learning, keep away from other surfers. Try to get a feel just out on the shore. See what's happening, feel the wind, the currents, the waves etc. Best advice, go out for a swim in the ocean at least 2 times a week. Do some body surf and get comfortable with waves etc.
And don't drown!

HERE IS WHAT HAPPENED
My endurance sucks! I am a web developer...
1st I reached the lineup and then got carried in a way that I couldn't reach the shore. I was not getting too far either so not too panicky but still, my shoulders were f***ing sore and I got really exhausted.

First thing when you stretch, take 10-15 minutes to "read the line up. This means understanding where you want to be once you've passed the break. Analyse the level of surfers who are there, is this a spot for your level? To understand if it's for you, imagine losing your board. Would you be comfortable paddling back to shore without it?

Learn about rip tides. This is especially crucial on French beach breaks which are known for their strong rip currents. Make sure to understand how to recognize them and how to get out of them.



Then I managed to make it to a group of surfers waiting for some waves too big for me, about 2m. Being an exhausted beginner, I felt bad to be in this spot!
By then I couldn't even paddle to get myself surfing, just too tired.

If you feel like you need assistance, better ask the most experienced surfers instead of just staying there and being a potential danger or being in the way. I'm sure some of them will be happy to assist you and give you a few hints to get yourself back to shore safely.

Then one big wave was about to break on me, me facing the shore, this was bad as if I get it right, I should have been duck-diving it right? But no time to turn 180!!!

So as it was said before in another post above, you want to be looking at the horizon to see those waves coming. And you also want to be about 5meters minimum from the impact zone where the waves breaks, so that you have sufficient speed (generated by you paddling when the waves comes) to take off on the wave instead of having the wave crash all its energy on you.

If you find yourself looking to the shore as a wave is approaching, sit on the board, shift your weight back on the back of the board by pulling your board back and sitting towards the tail, use hand and feet to paddle to turn around while sitting on the board.

If it's too late and your' about to get the wave crash on you:

A- If you're facing the shore, grab the board and shift weight to the back of the board to prevent nose diving, and surf the whitewash until you're stable and can try to take off.

A good tip to take off and stay balance : Fix a point at the horizon, don't look down, just fix that point like if' you're trying to do a balance pose in yoga .

B-If you're in the middle of turning the board around and the wave is about to hit you sideways,look to make sure nobody is around you, especially between you and the shore, and just get off your board and go in the water. You could also turtle roll.

C-If there are people that could get hit by your board, then turtle roll

No need to say I panicked and already when the second one was ready to hit me the same way again I was even less ready. Leash trapped my legs under water. Got a feeling of almost drowning there trying to reach some air to gasp.

Practice staying calm and keep your breath underwater. You can practice this in a pool. Count 10second and close a finger in your hand, and see how many fingers you can close. I bet you you can do at least 10-15 fingers. So once that moment arrive where you leash gets around your leg and you feel trapped under water, remember the pool exercise and realize that you actually have way more oxygen than your brain wants you to believe. Just stay relaxed, maybe try to get that leash out, and eventually paddle back up.

A third one (white wave) took me, lying on my board at fast speed, I was making some progress towards the beach when all of a sudden I got projected under water (I guess I was too forward on it) I almost died there. Miserably got my sorry ass on the beach and puked a couple times.


Exactly, you had too much weight on the front of your board, make sure your back foot is about 30cm of your tail and your front foot is about in the middle of your board, keep your knees bent, don't look down, fix where you want to go towards the horizon.

Finally, make sure you understand how the waves break and who has priority to avoid being in someone else's way. Sit outside the impact zone and wait for your turn. If you're not sure, communicate with the other surfers. If they seem all more advanced, ask if you can have the next wave or ask if they're going for it. They might choose to give you the wave or wait for a bigger one, which means you can go.


Please give me some constructive advice, I need to know why I messed up so bad except for my body was not fit enough which I now know.

I figured I could self teach myself with internet here and there and learn at my own pace.

[b] Finally, I would add that sure you can teach yourself with the internet but getting some coaching/instruction will accelerate your progression x10.[/b


Enjoy!