Page 1 of 1

Call me foolish, but...

PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2012 9:32 am
by Jimi
I'm thinking of taking a crack at making a mal. :?: :lol: :unuts:

So, a mate and I were thinking that a useful board to add to the quiver would be an 8ft ish mal, but we both are poor students and the $900 price tag for new, or $400 for clapped out 2nd hand seems hard to justify. Then the idea struck (like a brick through a window) to make a board!

Length will be ~8ft.
width = whatever the blank comes with.
thickness = whatever the blank comes with.

That only leaves outline, rails and bottom contours for us to ruin. So, what are people's thoughts on outlines, tail shapes and rail profiles?

What is the general consensus of mal riders regarding these characteristics for a good small wave board that can turn and can be a learning platform for board-walking?

Jaffa I'm looking loosely in your direction! :wink:

Re: Call me foolish, but...

PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2012 10:18 am
by jaffa1949
EEEEEEEEK a major call to my credibility :lol:

Get out and do three things, this is even before you begin to shape.
For what you are wanting go 9''
Number one ask yourself what you want the new beastie to be capable of, get a ply wood or heavy cardboard, cut that to the plan shape of an eight foot mal you think does those things.it need only be for one side, just turn it over. Do the same for a rocker template top and bottom.
They are your rough outs.
Next consider the rails they are the most challenging to get right and symmetrical at each side.
Look at the rail to rail bottom contours at selected point along the board.
There will be a progression through concave to flat to vee or rounded bottom , a newbies way is to do cardboard profiles at selected point so you can run the shape from one to another.

Now I pencil in the plan shape on the blank, and because I haven't done this I check for symmetry in the plan from the stringer..

First scary bit get out the saw and cut the shape out, keep the saw vertical ( angle it and you will undercut the deck or limit what you can do with the rails.
You can if you allowed a little tolerance cut to your line, or just outside it if not but keep to the shape!
Examine what you've done hopefully it has worked.

If you are lucky and you have agood blank, it has a good rocker and no tweaking except the bottom contouring is necessary.

The scary scary part that which really shows the quality of the shaper, the rails, you've looked at your model that you are copying now you mow from your contoured deck and bottom and also the changing progression of your rail types. Don't get excited, heavy hands here will alter your plan shape .

I reread your post and further thoughts came up!


50/50 rails heading to a slightly hard bottom edge near the tail, a fairly long flat to the bottom as a planing surface, a slight tail kick to aid turning and maybe a very light vee to the centre fin box. (added strength) also gives a little zing to laying over for turns.
Can't advise you about outer fin plugs or boxes, only centre fin boxes had been invented when last I shaped :shock:

If you get it anywhere near close to what you are copying it will work, just think some pretty lousy Chinese boards are out there working.
You are supporting your most local shaper!
Progress photos please. :lol:

Re: Call me foolish, but...

PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2012 11:56 am
by Jimi
jaffa1949 wrote:If you get it anywhere near close to what you are copying it will work, just think some pretty lousy Chinese boards are out there working.
You are supporting your most local shaper!
Progress photos please. :lol:


Cheers for the top tips - especially the brief how-to! :clap:

The 'chinese' principle was what made me think having a diy attempt was feasible, especially since I've done plenty of repairs on boards from re-setting glassed on fins, to putting a snapped board back together, and everything in between. I guess the key question in my mind (which you've answered btw) was the rail profiles needed and vee or concaves at various points.

I know the "specialist" noseriders all use big nose concaves, but I think you've nailed it for a general purpose board with concave into vee at the fin. I also get the impression that a wider square tail is gonna help with getting up to the nose from reading the various reports on the internet, but I'm no regular longboarder, so opinions from regular loggers are very welcome!

I'm really just in the ideas stage now, putting together a plan and researching design, so the build will start in about 5 or 6 weeks during uni break!

PS it's gonna be a single just like the old days! 8)

Re: Call me foolish, but...

PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2012 12:29 pm
by surf patrol
Can't wait to see the results!
Make sure you document it from start to finish, then post the results here. :thumbs:

Re: Call me foolish, but...

PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2012 12:39 pm
by jaffa1949
Jimi wrote:
jaffa1949 wrote:If you get it anywhere near close to what you are copying it will work, just think some pretty lousy Chinese boards are out there working.
You are supporting your most local shaper!
Progress photos please. :lol:


I know the "specialist" noseriders all use big nose concaves, but I think you've nailed it for a general purpose board with concave into vee at the fin. I also get the impression that a wider square tail is gonna help with getting up to the nose from reading the various reports on the internet, but I'm no regular longboarder, so opinions from regular loggers are very welcome!

I'm really just in the ideas stage now, putting together a plan and researching design, so the build will start in about 5 or 6 weeks during uni break!

PS it's gonna be a single just like the old days! 8)


Use a fin box for the single it will save you a motza on fins and placement as you can tune within the box.
Sort of rule of thumb 1" depth of fin per foot. Start begging borrowing or cheap buying assorted longboard fins, most serious longboarders have squillions in their shed and will part with old ones you can play with the foil and stuff.

Welcome to Jumpin' Jiminy Shapes. :lol: :lol:

Re: Call me foolish, but...

PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 1:21 pm
by Jimi
So a follow up - I came across an 8footer for sale at a bargain basement price and grabbed it. Virtually new condition - just 5yrs old gift that never saw water :shock: :woot:

A small sun-cure fix to the tail later, and took it for a surf today - 1st time in 3ft+ heavy closeout beachies (interesting way to trial a longboard/minimal, I know) which it survived.
2nd time, this afternoon at a sheltered reef with 2-3ft sets (I was tired after the morning) and longer peeling faces. Great rides, and the board's a keeper. I'm still learning to cross step, but made it within 1ft from the nose on most waves before pulling out! Not really sure if I'll get properly to the nose yet, but we'll see.

At any rate, may still have a red-hot go at a 9ft log with a big single fin still! Could make noseriding an easier proposition.

Re: Call me foolish, but...

PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 1:25 pm
by Jimi
jaffa1949 wrote:Welcome to Jumpin' Jiminy Shapes. :lol: :lol:


Actually how does green tinted resin sound for the 'Jumpin Jiminy Cricket' :lol:

Re: Call me foolish, but...

PostPosted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 1:00 am
by jaffa1949
That really resinates, :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: Welcome to MOTHBALLS
Member Over The Hill Ancient Long Log Surfers..
I'm an OLD FARTS Old Legendary Days, Fraternity of Ancient Real Time Surfers
Both are from a series of Tee shirt I've made for myself and friends of the same vintage as surf trip memorabilia.
Moth balls.jpg
OLd Farts.jpg

Re: Call me foolish, but...

PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 7:55 pm
by Oceanshred
Make sure you post some pics when it is done!

Re: Call me foolish, but...

PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 4:38 am
by IB_Surfer
Jimi wrote:Call me foolish, but...


You are Foolish

(per your request... :lol: )

Re: Call me foolish, but...

PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 7:55 am
by Jimi
Cheers! I was wondering if anyone would! :lol:

Will update when the process is under way - but not for a few weeks yet.