Surfing Waves

In advance sorry for this long post, but I could really use some help...

So I have been surfing for about 5 years now (4 successfully). I stood up for the first time on an 8'6", and last fall I bought myself a 7'4" and have been loving it. My ultimate goal is to be able to surf all shapes and sizes of surfboards. Anyway enough about my past.

I believe I am a fairly competent surfer. I always make my drops (thought I am a little rusty going backside). I catch most waves I go for. I feel confident out in the ocean.

Today was the first somewhat big day I have surfed in, since probably the end of last summer. Today was said to be 4-6ft, but by the time I got there, I assure you it was more like 6-8ft. It was pretty nice, and I was really excited (and nervous) to get out there... Then it happened.

I watched surfer after surfer, paddle out along the jetty, with definite resistance but all at some point successfully making it out. So I tried once, twice, three, four times!, and STILL I could not make it past the larger sets that would break. It sucked.. I kept riding white water back to the beach and trying again..

Finally I told myself "dude... stop being such a p*ssy" and get out there. So i took a deep breath, jumped into the wash, and started paddling. Of course at first with the slight rip off the jetty I seemed to wash right out to sea, and then the sets started coming, one after another, but this time I think I got lucky, and just got out past them. I finally made it.. I sat in the line up, caught my breath, felt really happy but still upset with myself. I am a young guy, 25 years old, I have been surfing for a few years now. I am not extremely overweight, (though I have some pudge.) But there were plenty of older guys, and even this one guy that was HUGE who seemed to get out no problem on a longboard. I just didnt get it.

I waited for the right wave (in fear of not making it, and having to paddle back out) and finally it came.. Had to be 7ish ft, if not an 8ft set. I paddled, dropped in no problem, rode a nice line, then it closed out. I was too far in, so I went back to shore. I went back to the jetty, started paddling out (feeling better) I said to my self "you know you can do this, you already did it once." And of course.. epic fail. I couldnt get out. I tried 4 more times.. and gave up. I relished in my one wave, was happy that I could still call my self a surfer to some degree.. packed up feeling ashamed of myself, and drove an hour home..

I dont get it. What went wrong. Has anyone had this kind of thing happen to them. I know we all have our days, but why was everyone else doing it fine. Part of me says the board isnt as fast as my longboard, but also I definitly cannot duck dive this thing. I am like 5'9 180lbs.

Anyway, any advice would be awesome. The best advice I can give myself, is not to despair, but to get in a pool and start swimming, or get in the ocean and start paddling. but at the same time, I could use a little encouragement, because after today I feel like I am not a true surfer. And it was the one thing in my crazy life I had to keep me happy.

Desh wrote:In advance sorry for this long post, but I could really use some help...
I could use a little encouragement, because after today I feel like I am not a true surfer. And it was the one thing in my crazy life I had to keep me happy.

Every surfer has a day when the ocean pushes the eject button on you, when you just can't do it ( something) anything right.
The true surfer goes again, not necessarily on the same day, but again, you can accept the limits or transcend the limit, figure out why and you will have progressed on your path.
That board is duckdiveable, but some work on your technique may be needed. or a quality eskimo/turtle roll may help, there are lots of posts on duck dive technique here.

My final thoughts, surf more you'll lose some of that "pudge" and have more time to get you techniques.

Just a slight comment, I was in a longboard contest in the paddle out the wave and sandbank configuration changed in a set and I spent my entire heat trying to get out. I got out in time to hear the hooter for the end of the heat. caught a wave immediately but had to prone to shore Needless to say I came last

Thanks for the advice. I honestly dont think the pudge is as bad i as made it sound, i think im just being overly critical because of what happened yesterday. Anyway, Im eating a nice breakfast right now, and about to head out again today. Waves are smaller, but maybe a few nice rides and ill forget all about it.

I will definitly work on duckdiving the board, I guess I am just a duckdiving noob still. I will give it a whirl today.

Thanks for the encouragement. Ill let u know how it goes.

Have to say i have had similiar experiances, i worked all last year on my timing of gettting through waves and technique have to say nothing beats practice and tiem in the water

newportlongboard wrote:nothing beats practice and time in the water

You should put this in your forum signature

i had a good surf today, almost got shacked.. actually i think i may have but i had so much water in my eyes i couldnt see..

I do get a pretty fair amount of time in the water, I try to surf a minimum of two times a week, and its an hour drive to get there. I think I just need to be less lazy and just find more reasons to paddle around during a surf. After yesterday, my traps and shoulders are slightly tender.

I should add I have a bit of shoulder problem from years of baseball, and a slight left elbow issue. Both bother me when im in the water. I do go to physical therapy, but I just find it hard to use it as an excuse when I can deal with the discomfort for prolonged surf sessions, when everything seems to go smoothly.

today by the way I should add, I had a hard time again paddling out. I noticed a couple guys with larger boards paddling around the other side of the jetty, so thats what I did. It felt like cheating, so I still dont feel any better. But I am just going to focus on swimming more, maybe even driving to the beach on the weekend to get a good hour or two paddling session in. I just gotta get in the water if I wanna surf epic days.

haha thanks for the advice man. I guess i gotta remember that my true ability lies in catching and riding waves.

Desh wrote:i had a good surf today,
today by the way I should add, I had a hard time again paddling out. I noticed a couple guys with larger boards paddling around the other side of the jetty, so thats what I did. It felt like cheating, so I still dont feel any better. I just gotta get in the water if I wanna surf epic days.

Sorry Desh I deleted (accidently) my post to you about cheating whilst smacking trolls.
It's not cheating to find the east way out the back, jetties piers rips, breakwaters, surfing is about surfing not the struggle to get out.

I'm glad you read my full post about hat before I zapped it. Even longer boards are OK, it's about you enjoying your surf!

(Jaffa's post rescued from over-zealous moderating )

Desh wrote:today by the way I should add, I had a hard time again paddling out. I noticed a couple guys with larger boards paddling around the other side of the jetty, so thats what I did. It felt like cheating, so I still dont feel any better.

Bloody hell, stop giving yourself a hard time, paddling out with the long boards is NOT CHEATING it is being surf smart.
Where it is difficult to paddle out, guys jump off rocks , off jetties, breakwalls or what ever, not one of them thinks it's cheating , if you have shoulder and elbow issues why subject them to extra stress when if you use your brain you can get an easy ride out the back and concentrate on the surfing bit! That's where you are getting to most fun sounds like a couple of good rides.

The only thing that may stop you from using jetties etc could be local ordinances , ( in true Australian Spirit, only if you get caught.)


fix your shoulder, fix your swimming, if this case take the easy way out. OH! work on your duck dive.
FINALLY FEEL GOOD

Thanks for the retrieval